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Tanya Gold rss

rextail

Rextail: a restaurant for billionaire children

20 September 2014

Rextail is a restaurant for billionaire children, such as Richie Rich. Its owner, Arcady Novikov, has already opened a restaurant for billionaire men and their spindly billionaire wives — the… Read more

6600-fischers-clockroom-landscape

Fischer’s is like visiting Vienna without having to go to Austria (thank God)

6 September 2014

Fischer’s is Austria made safe for liberals, gays, Jews and other Untermenschen riffraff, because it is a restaurant, not a concentration camp, and because it is in Marylebone High Street,… Read more

Rhubarb has the loveliest, craziest dining room I have ever seen

23 August 2014

The Edinburgh Fringe Festival: the city is full of glassy-eyed narcissists eating haggis pizza off flyers that say Michael Gove: Prick. I saw the Grim Reaper in the Pleasance Courtyard,… Read more

Scenes In And Around London's Soho

L’Escargot is Soho as Soho sees itself

9 August 2014

L’Escargot, or the Snail, is a famous restaurant on Greek Street, Soho, opposite the old Establishment club; the oldest French restaurant in London, they say (1927), and who am I… Read more

The Queen And The Duke Of Edinburgh Visits Derbyshire

Does the Duke of Devonshire really want to be my friend – or is he just after my bank details?

26 July 2014

The Chatsworth estate, Derby-shire. I am overwhelmed by marketing literature. I am prostrate. I am weeping. I am staying in one of the Duke of Devonshire’s barns, renovated into a… Read more

DST

Dean Street Townhouse – at last! Somewhere I'd pay to eat

12 July 2014

Occasionally a critic must review a restaurant in which they are prepared to spend their own money. So here is the Dean Street Townhouse. It is a terrible name, because… Read more

At the Chiltern Firehouse, smugness should be on the menu

28 June 2014

Here then is Gatsby’s house, after an invasion by the Daily Mail. It is called the Chiltern Firehouse. It is a restaurant in a newly opened hotel in a Victorian… Read more

Fera at Claridges

Something wild – well, wild for Claridge's – in Gordon Ramsay's old cave

14 June 2014

Fera is in Gordon Ramsay’s old cave at Claridge’s. His red and yellow room, like a ripped-off arm, has been annihilated; here now is ‘restful’ green, and food by Simon… Read more

General Views Of Venice As Hayek Pinault Second Wedding Plans Develop

Harry’s Bar, where a slice of cake costs €32 – and is worth it

31 May 2014

Harry’s Bar is a dull pale box. This is remarkable in Venice, which is a hospice for dying palaces, held up aching over the world’s most charismatic puddle; Harry’s is… Read more

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The rudest restaurants in London

17 May 2014

Wong Kei is a mad Chinese restaurant on Wardour Street, Chinatown. Until recently it was considered the rudest restaurant in London and, because human stupidity is without end, it became… Read more

The Cherwell Boathouse

After visiting the Cherwell Boathouse, I might spare Oxford from burning

3 May 2014

It is now two decades since I lived in Oxford. I was then a drunk and lonely puddle of a person, with only a gift for screaming; but no matter… Read more

marcus

Marcus Wareing drops a name

19 April 2014

In the ‘Chefs’ Last Supper’ in the National Portrait Gallery, Marcus Wareing is throwing a brie at Gordon Ramsay, who plays Jesus. They both have restaurants in the celebrity-chef triangle… Read more

London House Lounge

Gordon Ramsay joins in the posh invasion of Battersea

5 April 2014

London House is in Battersea, which some people call South Chelsea, but is more East Wandsworth to my mind; or maybe North Clapham, or, even better, West Brixton. This is… Read more

Highgrove House Photo: Getty

Who dines at Highgrove when Prince Charles doesn't?

22 March 2014

Highgrove is the country house of the Prince of Wales. I write about Highgrove because, although it is not a restaurant, even of the wackiest kind — which can only… Read more

Moro interior

So is Moro a Tory restaurant now?

8 March 2014

Moro (‘moorish’ or ‘sexist’) is a Spanish restaurant on Exmouth Market, near the bones of the old Guardian and Observer building on Farringdon Road. I don’t mind telling Spectator readers… Read more

The Fable would do better as an American Psycho theme bar

22 February 2014

The Fable is three floors high and two days old, a monster newly hatched on the Holborn Viaduct; deep below is the valley of the River Fleet, which is genuinely… Read more

Lanes of London's Jammy Dodgers

Lanes of London is dining for Martians

8 February 2014

Lanes of London serves street food to people who hate streets; that is, it exists to soothe the still-curious mouths of lazy, wealthy paranoiacs. This is the character of the… Read more

Langan’s Brasserie Photo: Mark Hillary

The 1980s relics of Langan's Brasserie

25 January 2014

Langan’s Brasserie announces its presence with a long, pink neon line of Langanses, tootling prettily along its façade, which is opposite Marks & Spencer on Green Park. (The apostrophes, by… Read more

Woolley Grange

Tanya Gold: Child-friendly, sex-free, nut-heavy – just the hotel for my 40th birthday

11 January 2014

Woolley Grange is a child-friendly country house hotel that seems, at first, entirely monstrous — a grey Tudor house in Wiltshire, with gables like teeth and a pond outside, possibly… Read more

Food

Tanya Gold: The sheer horror of Hyde Park's Winter Wonderland

14 December 2013

Winter Wonderland is a Christmas-themed playground that lands on the sorry part of Hyde Park in November; the part that is munched underfoot, and is sad, and makes money. It… Read more

Tanya Gold: Eating in the lobby at Canary Wharf

30 November 2013

One Canada Square was the original glass house in east London’s Gotham City, a thrilling tower with a flashing pyramid on that part of the Thames that looks like a… Read more

Food2

Boulestin has nothing to do with Marcel Boulestin — but could entice Mary Berry

16 November 2013

Boulestin is a pretty restaurant on St James’s Street, between the posh fag shop (Davidoff) and the old palace, which the Hanoverians thought so ghastly that they moved out to… Read more

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Food: Heston’s brown Dinner, with a side order of irritation

2 November 2013

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, a brown cavern in the Mandarin Oriental hotel, Knightsbridge, has won a second Michelin star. These stars are food ‘Oscars’ (Hollywood has eaten everything, despite its… Read more

Celebrities At The Lakers Game

Gordon Ramsay's violently unsexy new restaurant shows he's near the end

19 October 2013

The Union Street Café is in a dismal, dingy part of London; dismal dingy Southwark. Southwark, in fact, is almost charismatically dingy, a land of despairing streets and brick arches… Read more

mm871 Wild Rabbit

The Wild Rabbit's food may be organic - but nothing else there is

5 October 2013

The Wild Rabbit is a pub in the Cotswolds, that small corner of Britain full of evil grinning cottages; if the Cotswolds were a small dog it would always be… Read more