Tanya Gold rss


Marcus Wareing drops a name

19 April 2014

In the ‘Chefs’ Last Supper’ in the National Portrait Gallery, Marcus Wareing is throwing a brie at Gordon Ramsay, who plays Jesus. They both have restaurants in the celebrity-chef triangle… Read more

London House Lounge

Gordon Ramsay joins in the posh invasion of Battersea

5 April 2014

London House is in Battersea, which some people call South Chelsea, but is more East Wandsworth to my mind; or maybe North Clapham, or, even better, West Brixton. This is… Read more

Highgrove House Photo: Getty

Who dines at Highgrove when Prince Charles doesn't?

22 March 2014

Highgrove is the country house of the Prince of Wales. I write about Highgrove because, although it is not a restaurant, even of the wackiest kind — which can only… Read more

Moro interior

So is Moro a Tory restaurant now?

8 March 2014

Moro (‘moorish’ or ‘sexist’) is a Spanish restaurant on Exmouth Market, near the bones of the old Guardian and Observer building on Farringdon Road. I don’t mind telling Spectator readers… Read more

The Fable would do better as an American Psycho theme bar

22 February 2014

The Fable is three floors high and two days old, a monster newly hatched on the Holborn Viaduct; deep below is the valley of the River Fleet, which is genuinely… Read more

Lanes of London's Jammy Dodgers

Lanes of London is dining for Martians

8 February 2014

Lanes of London serves street food to people who hate streets; that is, it exists to soothe the still-curious mouths of lazy, wealthy paranoiacs. This is the character of the… Read more

Langan’s Brasserie Photo: Mark Hillary

The 1980s relics of Langan's Brasserie

25 January 2014

Langan’s Brasserie announces its presence with a long, pink neon line of Langanses, tootling prettily along its façade, which is opposite Marks & Spencer on Green Park. (The apostrophes, by… Read more

Woolley Grange

Tanya Gold: Child-friendly, sex-free, nut-heavy – just the hotel for my 40th birthday

11 January 2014

Woolley Grange is a child-friendly country house hotel that seems, at first, entirely monstrous — a grey Tudor house in Wiltshire, with gables like teeth and a pond outside, possibly… Read more


Tanya Gold: The sheer horror of Hyde Park's Winter Wonderland

14 December 2013

Winter Wonderland is a Christmas-themed playground that lands on the sorry part of Hyde Park in November; the part that is munched underfoot, and is sad, and makes money. It… Read more

Tanya Gold: Eating in the lobby at Canary Wharf

30 November 2013

One Canada Square was the original glass house in east London’s Gotham City, a thrilling tower with a flashing pyramid on that part of the Thames that looks like a… Read more


Boulestin has nothing to do with Marcel Boulestin — but could entice Mary Berry

16 November 2013

Boulestin is a pretty restaurant on St James’s Street, between the posh fag shop (Davidoff) and the old palace, which the Hanoverians thought so ghastly that they moved out to… Read more


Food: Heston’s brown Dinner, with a side order of irritation

2 November 2013

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, a brown cavern in the Mandarin Oriental hotel, Knightsbridge, has won a second Michelin star. These stars are food ‘Oscars’ (Hollywood has eaten everything, despite its… Read more

Celebrities At The Lakers Game

Gordon Ramsay's violently unsexy new restaurant shows he's near the end

19 October 2013

The Union Street Café is in a dismal, dingy part of London; dismal dingy Southwark. Southwark, in fact, is almost charismatically dingy, a land of despairing streets and brick arches… Read more

mm871 Wild Rabbit

The Wild Rabbit's food may be organic - but nothing else there is

5 October 2013

The Wild Rabbit is a pub in the Cotswolds, that small corner of Britain full of evil grinning cottages; if the Cotswolds were a small dog it would always be… Read more

The perfect spot for some 'Jewish penicillin'

A restaurant in a synagogue. How strange can it be?

21 September 2013

A restaurant in a synagogue may be too mad even for this column but we are Jews, so why not? (Column shrugs with the secret frisson of negative stereotyping.) 1701… Read more


A Roald Dahl tea? It reminds me more of Jimmy Savile

7 September 2013

One Aldwych, an Edwardian grand hotel near Waterloo Bridge, is serving a Jimmy Savile tribute tea. It is not explicitly called a Jimmy Savile tribute tea; of course it is… Read more

‘Good things come to 
those who wait' Photo: William Brinson

‘Like a concentration camp run by KFC’: Tanya Gold visits Shake Shack

10 August 2013

Shake Shack is a hamburger restaurant in Covent Garden market. It came from New York and it is as needy and angry and angry-needy as America itself; it is, I… Read more

This photograph brought to you by Dairylea. (Also: Oli Scarff/Getty Images)

Tanya Gold on eating at the Shard

27 July 2013

What to say about the Shard that isn’t said by the fact it is 1,020 feet high and looks like a slightly elongated cheese triangle, and that it is designed… Read more

Tanya Gold eats suckling pig at Le Café Anglais

13 July 2013

I write this column at the point of a pitchfork. A, normally so placid — ‘He’s so placid!’ people like to say as he wanders around placidly — has cracked.… Read more

Charles Saatchi, dining Scott's restaurant in Mayfair.

Food: Scott’s, the scene of the crime

29 June 2013

Scott’s, Mount Street, Mayfair: the scene of the crime or, for those who do not read newspapers, the place where Charles Saatchi throttled his wife Nigella Lawson in the smoking… Read more


Restaurant: Kaspar’s at the Savoy

15 June 2013

Kaspar’s Seafood Bar and Grill is named for superstition, snobbery and avarice. At a dinner at the Savoy in 1898 there were 13 guests at dinner, and the host, a… Read more


An ice-cream war

1 June 2013

The Antica Roma is an ice-cream shop near the Spanish Steps in Rome; recently, it served four English tourists called the Bannisters and Their Wives. Mr Bannister was so surprised… Read more


Tanya Gold reviews STK London

18 May 2013

STK is a steakhouse at the bottom of the ME Hotel on the Aldwych. (This is a real name for a real hotel. The cult of individualism has finally reached… Read more


Tanya Gold reviews Potato Merchant

4 May 2013

Exmouth Market is a small collection of paved streets near the Farringdon Travelodge, which specialises in monomaniacal restaurants and has a blue plaque dedicated to the dead clown Joseph Grimaldi.… Read more

Image: Sean Dempsey/PA Wire/Press Association Images

Tanya Gold reviews The Ritz

20 April 2013

The Ritz Hotel is a cake on Piccadilly made of stone; inside this cake, Lady Thatcher died. Some think it is tragic that she died here in the cake of… Read more