Jerusalem: an insider’s guide

Andrew Sanger

Despite biblical stories of visions and miracles, Jerusalem is a real city, says Andrew Sanger, albeit one unlike anywhere else on Earth. It’s also the perfect destination if you want to avoid the Christmas hullabaloo

Then there’s the Old City itself, enclosed within mighty 16th-century ramparts built by Suleiman the Magnificent. This single square-kilometre of tangled lanes, segmented into its four quarters – Muslim, Armenian, Jewish and Christian, each sharply different – is the pearl at the heart of it all. Here you will also find the majestic Dome of the Rock, built in 691 AD and the oldest Islamic building in the world. The entire city is brimming with tangible and astounding history and peppered with awe-inspiring religious sites unlike anywhere else on earth. No wonder poets have waxed lyrical.

Where to stay

Let’s be frank: luxury in Israel can sometimes mean a certain over-dependence on fixtures and fittings, with not enough emphasis on little extras such as elegant good taste, quiet politeness, discreet service and attention to detail. Where they really do score, though, is on the breakfasts. You will be overwhelmed by buffets of delicious salads and tasty savoury dishes, fruits, cheeses, pastries and sweet baked desserts.

Unlike most other cities with a historic core, in Jerusalem the Old City has little accommodation other than the most basic. The main hotel district is in the city centre around stately avenues called King David, King George V and Keren Hayesod. The street names neatly reflect three major influences on modern Jerusalem: the Bible, the British and a Zionist charity. Hotels along here, mostly run by large Israeli or international chains, reach a high standard. Some are truly outstanding, among them the David Citadel, with exceptional comfort, a spa, four restaurants and wonderful views.