Caracas: an insider’s guide

Thom Walker

From revolution to reggae, Venezuela’s capital city combines colonial culture and a varied heritage with a dose of Caribbean spirit. Thom Walker says the Caraqueñan melting pot is well worth a visit

Wandering through Caracas, the city can often feel like a cultural cauldron. Its colonial past coupled with post-war immigration from Europe means that Spanish, Portuguese and Italian influences abound. Yet due to its position just a few miles from the Caribbean, the city also maintains a very strong Creole identity. Similarly, mass migration to the capital from rural areas means that from the Andes to the Amazon, every corner of Venezuela is well represented. Caracas is a true metropolis. Lying scattered along a valley, watched over by the imposing Ávila mountain, the resultant melting pot is chaotic, but always intriguing.

What to do

Anyone with an interest in Venezuelan history will love the downtown area around Capitólio. The area is a little run-down, but still fascinating. Wander across the historic Plaza Bolívar and then down to the recently restored Municipal Theatre, which was built by former President Guzman Blanco in 1881 and is now a popular venue for President Hugo Chavez’s epic speeches. As the country’s liberation hero, Simón Bolívar retains an almost messianic status and a quick tour from his house – a few blocks from the metro station – up to his tomb at the Panteón Nacional is a decent introduction. Those who remember the short-lived coup in 2002 might like to cross the now infamous Llaguno Bridge on the way up to Miraflores, the presidential palace.

For the more artistically inclined, Bellas Artes is the city’s cultural hub, with a number of museums close by. An excellent choice is the Museum of Contemporary Art at the end of Avenida Bolívar. Sadly, the gallery is often rather empty, though this does at least make for a peaceful experience. Opened in 1974, the building has five spacious levels and an impressive permanent collection of sketches by Picasso.

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