Books

‘Three Mackerel’ (oil on board), Sara Hayward, private collection Bridgeman Art Gallery

Squirrel pie? Now try freshly beheaded turtle

9 July 2016 9:00 am

Elisabeth Luard chews over the relationship between food and place, but her rich concoction doesn’t quite hit the spot, says Philip Hensher

Lake Lucerne Photo: Davide Seddo/Getty

The nervous passenger who became one of our great travel writers

12 July 2014 9:00 am

Sybille Bedford all her life was a keen and courageous traveller. Restless, curious, intellectually alert, she was always ready to…

Going ethnic

31 March 2012 11:00 am

Tyler Cowen, a professor of economics at George Mason University, has been keenly interested in food for years. Besides being…

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A waist of shame

14 January 2012 1:00 pm

Britain has the worst obesity rates in Europe, with one in four adults now clinically obese. A friend who works…

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A History of English Food by Clarissa Dickson Wright

12 November 2011 10:00 am

It is where cookery is involved that tele-vision gives perhaps the greatest succour to the book trade. After Jennifer Paterson’s…

Bookends: Not just for Christmas

2 July 2011 6:00 am

Sticky at Christmas, packed in serried rows around a plastic twig in an oval-ended paper-wrapped box with a picture of a camel train; dates in childhood were exotic.

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Vastly entertaining

28 May 2011 12:00 am

It may not be quite true that the next best thing to eating good food is reading about it, but undeniably food writing has its considerable pleasures.

Bookends: The voice of the lobster

21 May 2011 12:00 am

In existence for over 250 millions years, lobsters come in two distinct varieties, ‘clawed and clawless’. Human predators tend to the flawed and clueless as they overfish and — since lobsters must be cooked live — kill them heartlessly.

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Bookends: The last laugh

9 April 2011 6:00 am

In July, the world’s most famous restaurant, elBulli, closes, to reopen in 2014 as a ‘creative centre’. Rough luck on the million-odd people who try for one of 8,000 reservations a year. It’s also a blow for the eponymous young cooks of Lisa Abend’s The Sorcerer’s Apprentices (Simon & Schuster, £18.99), the 45 stagiaires who labour in Ferran Adria’s kitchen for a season in the hope of sharing in the magic. Ferran, you see, is no mere cook. With him, ‘hot turns into cold, sweet into savoury, solid into liquid or air’.

A war of nutrition

5 February 2011 12:00 am

The long summer that led up to the last days of peace in Europe in 1939 — the vigil of the Nazi assault on Poland on 1 September and the ensuing Phoney War — gave little hint of the storm to come.

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Wonders of the world’s fare

11 December 2010 12:00 am

Apart from knowing your onions, you should be widely travelled, and preferably artistic, to cut the mustard these days, Fay Maschler suspects

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Brutal and brutalising

10 March 2010 12:00 am

In this book, Jonathan Safran Foer, the American novelist, tries to make us think about eating meat.