My guide to the horrors and awesome indignities of Michelin-starred restaurants
French grammar is also popular. In Gordon Ramsay’s Chelsea flagship — still the only restaurant in London deemed worthy of three stars — the tasting menu is described as ‘Menu Prestige’. Isn’t the adjective supposed to come before the noun? It was typical of the garbled Franglais that passes for English in posh restaurants. When the waiter appeared I was tempted to launch into a Yoda impression: ‘Menu Prestige have I will.’ Of course, all of these absurdities pale into insignificance next to the bill. Damon Runyon once asked whether there was a ‘laughing room’ in the basement of New York’s ‘21’ Club — a soundproof chamber where the proprietors convened to set the day’s prices. Every time I emerge from a Michelin-starred restaurant I ask myself the same question.
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Anxiously stable
January 22nd, 2009 9:05am Report this commentWe all know that you're busy Stateside with Top Chef, but such a shameless rewrite of an old piece is poor by any standards (even Julie managed to coin a few original phrases in her recent article for The Sun). Hope you do better next week.
Kellie
January 22nd, 2009 4:55pm Report this commentToby I normally love reading your column but waking up this morning stateside to read a column from recently regurgitated material is about as appealing as opening the door to find a deliveryman bringing you dead flowers.
I know you can do better than this and I look forward to reading it.
Toby Young
January 22nd, 2009 5:36pm Report this commentThis isn't a rewrite of a previously published piece, but the distillation of a longer blog entry. Since I published the entry on my own blog -- and own the copyright -- that's within the rules. Apologies to anyone who's already read the longer version, but most readers of the Spectator -- where this piece appeared today -- won't have seen it.
Karl Liplicker
January 22nd, 2009 6:34pm Report this commentName names Toby, name names!!
Herbert Thornton
January 22nd, 2009 6:34pm Report this commentToby -
Are Anxiously stable and Kellie perhaps former Michelin-star restaurant workers who are now out of work due to the recession but have not yet shed their accustomed attitudes?
I thoroughly enjoyed reading your comments and I don't care if earlier versions exist.
Angharad
January 23rd, 2009 8:33am Report this comment"the tasting menu is described as ‘Menu Prestige’. Isn’t the adjective supposed to come before the noun?"
In French, the adjective precedes the noun, not like in English or German. If you need a good example, think "Moulin Rouge", the Red Windmill.
Anxiously stable
January 23rd, 2009 1:33pm Report this commentDear Herbert. I've served my time in various places, but never in a restaurant. I'm just a fan of Toby's stuff, so was a mite peeved to have already read this piece (albeit edited for Anglo tastes) on his blog. Check out the comments on the Top Chef website, though. They're seriously funny…
Kellie
January 23rd, 2009 5:16pm Report this commentToby, my apologies for having thought that I read it here in the Spectator rather than your blog.
By the by, Herbert, no I have never worked for a Michelin rated restaurant or any restaurant for that matter. We don't have Michelin rated restaurants over here (at least to my knowledge unless they finally rated some in New York or L.A.) It seems very few of ours over here on the other side of the pond would pass any of their "criteria". Being a foodie that has lived in some of the most culinary rich cities in america, it's complete rubbish what they deem as a good restaurant.
Ellie
January 23rd, 2009 8:03pm Report this commentActually, the French grammer is perfectly correct. Only some adjectives come before the noun.
David Short
January 27th, 2009 6:22pm Report this commentI don't think Prestige is an adjective anyway; it's also a noun. Toby's right: it is hugely pretentious.
I once saw something that should have been an unguarded moment for Gordon Ramsay. He was showing some serf how to make broccoli soup. Broccoli, water and salt. That's why he's worth millions and that's why only fools go to pretentious restaurants.
I've been to some of the best restaurants in the world but thankfully have never had to foot the bill.
There is nothing very sublime about the food, and it's all been touched and mucked about with by God knows how many people before it gets in front of you.
Same with canapes. I've never touched them since a woman I met in Cannes, who was in charge of supplying girls and boys to delegates of the various festivals there, told me the waiters always blow raspberries all over them.
You can't have minimum wage people serving absurdly privileged people with something as personal as nibbles without a little bit of class warfare.
Remember Leona Helmsley? She was incredibly rude to the staff of all her husband's hotels. The result was that every cocktail she was ever served had been stirred by at least one waiter's cock. And doubtless it was not a very clean one!
I am sure that such swizzle sticks are used daily amid the refreshments of the rich and famous...
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