Wild life

Wild liferss

The warrior arched his body, readying to sling his spear at my chest

28 March 2015

 Laikipia With a shriek, the warrior arched his body, readying to sling his spear at my chest. The tear-dropped javelin point flashed in the sun. In the heat, dust swirled… Read more

Hope springs eternal: a 1954 Morris Minor at a Catholic mission station in Moipo, South Sudan

Having oozed optimism for a decade, I am a bit down about the Hopeful Continent

14 February 2015

Juba I discovered a 1954 Morris Minor parked outside the Catholic mission station in Mopoi, South Sudan. The car had been there for so long that a guava tree was… Read more

Meals on wheels Photo: Getty

I want to do for field rations what Jamie Oliver did for school dinners

17 January 2015

Hell’s Kitchen My ambition to open a fish and chip shop in Mogadishu has not happened yet, though I remain optimistic. Food, I’ve decided, is the thing to go for… Read more


I cannot imagine living in a world without lions

13 December 2014

Laikipia We are privileged to live with lions on the farm. We hear them most nights. We encounter them frequently. Out walking last month, I sensed four lions the instant… Read more

The people who want me not to believe what I saw in Rwanda

22 November 2014

Kenya It’s a long time since I thought of Thaddee, our Kigali stringer when I was covering Rwanda for Reuters. I remembered him because a recent fashion in western universities… Read more

Maasai People Struggle As Kenya Declares Drought Emergency

What happened when I tried to buy back my father's farm

25 October 2014

 Kenya I perused the brochure produced by Tanzania’s state corporation for livestock ranching, aimed at attracting foreign investors. Under ‘beef production’ was a photo of an American bison. Tanzania’s state… Read more

From Burma — or maybe Saigon — to Manchester via Calcutta

27 September 2014

England   We dropped off our daughter Eve at her new school in the Midlands and started the long journey home to Africa. On the train we sat down and… Read more


It's time for Kenya to put aside dreams of singing wells and dancing bulls

30 August 2014

Laikipia   ‘Good morning, sir!’ The warrior strides up to me on the high plains and shakes my hand. ‘May I traverse your farm? I thought it impolite not to… Read more


Climbing Mount Kenya with my 13-year-old daughter

19 July 2014

 Kenya Highlands I’ve just descended Mount Kenya with Eve, my 13-year-old daughter, and her class of school leavers from Pembroke House. Afterwards our guide Steve, an ex-Grenadier guardsman, emailed me… Read more


Please take your holiday in Kenya this year

21 June 2014

 Rift Valley Many of my British tribe fled Kenya around independence in 1963 because they believed there was no future. Gerald Hanley, an Irish novelist who knew the country, forecast… Read more


The books that have kept me alive

24 May 2014

In bed Safety measures — I’ve never been good at them, so inevitably I inhaled and got soaked by the toxic agricultural chemical I was out spraying on a windy… Read more

A Somali government soldier at the site of car bomb blast in front of the Makka Al Mukarrama Hotel in Mogadishu,  March 15, 2014

Hunted in Mogadishu by the Sick Man and the Jilbab

26 April 2014

From a way off, as he entered the café, he looked young and handsome but when he sat down there was something wrong in that face. He moved like a… Read more

A £50 million search for love

29 March 2014

 Laikipia When I first knew Michael Cunningham-Reid he was such a strict teetotaller that he would not eat trifle for pudding in case there was sherry in it. For years,… Read more


Jubilant greetings to you, Celestino! How is the atmospheric pressure in your corner? 

15 February 2014

 Laikipia ‘I am old and cannot work again,’ said Celestino. ‘But you are 46 and we have many years to go.’ ‘No. Working for you has made me blind.’ ‘We… Read more

The greater the risk, the greater the reward

I don't love money, but I love the risks it makes me take

18 January 2014

On the flight into Kinshasa, I sat next to an elderly Englishman who was pallid with fear. He revealed that he was a bankrupt who was determined to survive by… Read more

Cattle Rustlers

Aidan Hartley: If Santa Claus tried to make a delivery, he’d be shot before he reached the chimney

14 December 2013

Laikipia In the cattle rustlers’ camp, I know as I write this that the warriors are sharpening their blades, staring down the dirty barrels of their rifles, and loading their… Read more


Aidan Hartley: Kenya is special like no other African nation

16 November 2013

As I write this, my hands are seared and bruised from holding a hot iron after branding our cattle. We have castrated our steers and piled up the testicles on… Read more


Aidan Hartley: How Muslim militants and Western jihadis wrecked enchanting Somalia

19 October 2013

Wizards inland from the little Somali port of Barawe bewitched a person to come to them by banging a nail into a tree and chanting his name. ‘He comes no… Read more


Aidan Hartley: I have been shot at and bombed so why do I fear a pyramid?

21 September 2013

It was towards dusk by the time we had given the tourist police the slip and started climbing the pyramid of Mycerinus at Giza. It was Sebastian Barry-Taylor and I… Read more


Killing in Kenya: Aidan Hartley tracks the last steps of an elephant

24 August 2013

  Laikipia The bull elephant had roamed our northern marches of the Laikipia plateau for decades. I always recognised him when he passed through the farm because his handsome 65-pound… Read more

A Somali shepherd in Kenya

A binge on alcohol and meat, plus hired sex and lodging — all for £1.50

27 July 2013

 Kenya Home is beyond the perimeter of modern Kenya and way off the grid. When the ancient generator goes off in the evening we are left with a sky of… Read more

Wild life: Could I ever revive the Pinguaan Springs?

15 June 2013

Il Pinguaan Springs When I first saw the Pinguaan Springs they were small, fetid bogs set about with papyrus, the haunt of mercury-coloured frogs and dragonflies. I wondered why they… Read more

Kruger National Park

Wild life: Leopard on a hot tin roof

18 May 2013

A leopard has been on the rampage night after night. We know her because she often lurks in the woods behind the farmstead, between the beehives and the old long-drop… Read more

Wild life

20 April 2013

Colobus monkeys in the forest were throat singing like Tibetan monks. Mist rose from the Kericho tea gardens above us in the gloaming. My son Rider gazed longingly at the… Read more

Wild life

23 March 2013

Rift Valley ‘We’re on the frontline,’ I said. ‘And however many guns we had, it wouldn’t be enough against the cattle rustlers.’ ‘Yes,’ replied my friend Jamie, a shareholder in… Read more