Diary

8 March 2008

Matthew d'Ancona describes his time in India

Sarfraz Manzoor of the Guardian is more candid during his Q&A with Nikki, suggesting: ‘Born in Pakistan, Made in Britain.’ His memoir, Greetings from Bury Park, is the best book I have read on modern British identity, and explores its theme through the unexpected prism of Bruce Springsteen’s music. This leads to much late-night discussion on pop culture and identity. I end up spending a fortune on Springsteen downloads. ‘No one said wisdom came cheap,’ says my new guru.

Speaking of identity, Indra Sinha, the Booker-nominated author of Animal’s People, has heard I have co-written two books on early Christianity, and asks: ‘Is it true you are a member of Opus Dei?’ I am tempted to point to an imaginary cilice and wince, but decide instead to put Indra’s mind at rest. He tells me about the remarkable campaigning work he is doing for the victims of Bhopal, many of whom still suffer horribly, 24 years after the Union Carbide disaster. There is something in the idea that India has simply leapfrogged the 20th century. Astonishing wealth and technological brilliance sit cheek-by-jowl with unspeakable poverty, nowhere more so than in Mumbai. Real estate is more expensive than in Manhattan; yet a walk to the nearest cashpoint is a pageant in human misery as beggars and amputees plead for pitiful sums. There are Ferraris under floodlights. But you look at the terrible roads and wonder where you could drive them. Many such questions assail the first-time visitor. But easily the most pressing is: when will I be back?