Slow food heaven

British foodies at large in Italy this summer had a distinct spring in their step. Their pesto-stained copies of Osterie & Locande d’Italia had been given emeritus status on an upper shelf and replaced on tour by the first ever English-language edition of the book, which is better known here as the ‘Slow Food’ guide.

The emphasis is on informal, family-run restaurants serving traditional local and regional dishes, and inclusion is restricted to establishments where you can eat yourself comatose for under E35 a head (excluding booze). The moment you risk exceeding this amount, a kindly nonna will take away your cutlery and chide you gently. I made the last bit up, but the arrival of the English edition has brought sighs of relief from monoglots nationwide. It’s so much better to know that the name of that intriguing-sounding local speciality translates as ‘pappardelle with duck-innard sauce’ before it arrives on your table.