We’ve used this recipe for years at the Evesham Hotel, and I’ve never seen it elsewhere. Our former chef Ian Mann says it is good with anything smoked, including of course salmon, and we have had it on the menu with crisp parmesan biscuits (basically just melted parmesan). But it’s equally good on its own, for its own unique flavour.

1.5 pints milk
12 egg yolks
200 grams sugar
0.5 pints cream
500 grams asparagus

Cook asparagus in salted water, retain tips and purée the remainder.

Bring the milk to the boil and pour onto the beaten egg yolks and sugar, return to the saucepan and cook until the mixture thickens, add the asparagus purée and tips and the cream, cool. Churn in an ice-cream mixer.

John Jenkinson owns and runs the Evesham Hotel, cited by the Guardian and the Independent among the top 50 British and family-friendly hotels: www.eveshamhotel.com