I am sitting on a hot bus. It is at least 30 degrees. The air conditioner has decided to take a break and the windows don’t open. I distract myself from the sweaty bus by watching people on the street. I can see they’re speaking French.
Their faces are animated. Their hands fly through the air, bringing tales to life. I like to imagine they are talking about food. Don’t all French people talk about food? All the time? Perhaps that is only me, when in France. I have only just arrived in Bordeaux and I’m already dreaming about my next meal.
Our hotel owner tells us that the food at La Belle Epoque is ‘très bien’. We have a destination and someone to blame.
Despite being told the restaurant sits on the Garonne River, a few traffic lanes and a tram sit between the two.
We select the Menu Belle Epoque, which, for 38 euros, will provide us with entrée, main and dessert. This will have to be washed down with a bottle of Bordelais red. Naturellement. We select the Château Tour Haut-Caussan of Médoc, a name which matches our hotel. It will be a toast to our hostess if she has chosen well, a way to drown our sorrows if she has not.
It takes a while for us to order. The place is busy and we require a few translation checks en route. The tempting scallop dish turns out to be octopus. What I thought was the vegetarian option is actually monkfish.
Tagliatelles de légumes croquants et homard mariné
We begin with the lobster, served on a sheet of slate. It sits atop slithers of crunchy carrots, courgettes and lettuce leaves. The serving is substantial. When ordering lobster there is always a fear that after half a mouthful it will all be over. No such trouble here as I even pick up my knife to cut numerous mouthfuls of the succulent saffron spiced meat.
Pastilla de pigeon aux pommes caramélisées et jus aux cassis
The pastilla sits in the middle of the plate. This North African ‘meat pie’ is made by wrapping tender shredded pigeon meat in filo pastry. The meat is rich and indulgently spiced.
There is more meat on offer with pigeon wings dotted about the plate. The sweetness of the caramelised apple and blackcurrant jus perfectly compliments the spices. Hearty, wintery and exotic.
Cerises pochées aux épices et sa glace vanille
Despite being tempted by both the crème brulée and profiteroles, I opt for the poached cherries. The large servings continue with a mighty mound of the lightly spiced plump fruit.
With extremely full stomachs we raise our glasses to our hotel owner. ‘Santé!’
My French food chatter is not going to cease any time soon.
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