Usually, when I’m in the shower all I see is the reflection of a pale, middle-aged man staring steamily back. But things are looking up. I have been showering at the Hoopoe Yurt Hotel, with a view (unimpeded by glass) of the Andalusian mountains, with the occasional butterfly to provide scale. I think most would agree this is an improvement.
It is difficult to mention Yurts (round Mongolian tents), composting toilets and solar power without provoking an immediate Pavlovian cry of hippies. Nothing wrong with caftans and a bit of crystal gazing of course, but the ethos here is quite different.
Ed Holdsworth Hunt, the hotel's owner, acquired over the course of his travels around 10 hectares in the foothills of Andalusia, near Cortes de la Frontera. A combination of planning restrictions and practical concerns delayed his decision over what to do with the land, but when he was joined there by his wife, Henrietta, the question became ever more pressing. A yurt hotel seemed the perfect solution, both ecologically sound - Ed designed and constructed all the timber-buildings on site himself, using tools powered by solar energy - and taking advantage of the beautiful, remote landscape. Each of the hotel's six yurts is essentially a large bedroom with en-suite loo and shower, albeit the loo is separated from the yurt by a 30 foot path. Forget any festival-acquired revulsion for composting loos; these ones are well constructed, clean and non-smelly. And as each tent is separated from neighbouring yurts by dense undergrowth, you can sit and admire the view without fear of unwanted spectators.
Each evening, guests gather in the bar for pre-dinner drinks, usually Spanish Cava, before moving to the dining room, or perhaps dining area, as all the buildings are at least partially open-sided, meaning more spectacular views. Dinner is prepared by Sebastian Maciejewski, formally of Boudin Blanc in Mayfair and The Pilot, Chiswick. While at the latter restaurant, Sebastian won a competition with a particularly fine rabbit casserole. If you are tempted to have a go at home, the following recipe is suitable for four people.
1 rabbit, jointed
1 Spanish onion
2 carrots
6 garlic cloves, crushed
200ml white wine
4 tbsp spoon Dijon mustard
sprig of rosemary, thyme, 4 bay leaves, 4 tbsp chopped parsley
2 stalks of celery
100ml double cream
vegetable stock
olive oil
salt, pepper
Season the jointed pieces of rabbit with salt and pepper. Heat a large casserole pan, fry the rabbit until golden brown and set aside.
Add chopped onion, carrot and celery to the olive oil and sweat for 10 minutes. Add garlic cloves, bay leaves and rosemary and cook for a further five minutes.
Add white wine and reduce until syrupy, then, turning the heat low, add mustard and stir. Put in the rabbit and cover with vegetable stock. Simmer for 1.5 hours, until the meat is tender.
Remove the rabbit from the stock, reduce by half and then add cream. Correct the seasoning before returning the rabbit to the stock and cooking gently for another 10 minutes.
Finally add the chopped parsley and serve with creamy mash and sautéed French beans. (You will have to add the gentle warmth of an Andalusian evening and the tinkle of goat bells for yourself.)
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