One of the most melancholy walks in the world passes along the Calle Concordia, through the derelict heart of the lovely, ravaged city of Havana. If you seek a monument to Fidel Castro, look about you. The signs of bankruptcy, ideology and oppression are everywhere. Tall elegant buildings, crammed beyond bursting with near-destitute citizens, seem ready to collapse from neglect. The placards of the pestilent ‘Committees for the Defence of the Revolution’, the Communist party’s ubiquitous organisation of nosey parkers and informers, can be observed on several doorways. Peer into the state shops and you will see dismal rationed goods on sale for pitiful quantities of ‘National Money’, the wretched poor people’s cash which the Maximum Leader’s second-class subjects must use.
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