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Food

‘Good things come to 
those who wait' Photo: William Brinson

‘Like a concentration camp run by KFC’: Tanya Gold visits Shake Shack

10 August 2013

Shake Shack is a hamburger restaurant in Covent Garden market. It came from New York and it is as needy and angry and angry-needy as America itself; it is, I… Read more

This photograph brought to you by Dairylea. (Also: Oli Scarff/Getty Images)

Tanya Gold on eating at the Shard

27 July 2013

What to say about the Shard that isn’t said by the fact it is 1,020 feet high and looks like a slightly elongated cheese triangle, and that it is designed… Read more

20 July 2013

Q. Regarding the writing of ‘no presents’ on an invitation (Dear Mary, 6 July), my own experience is that many people ignore ‘no presents’ anyway. Some will not even ask… Read more

The Spectator’s notes

13 July 2013

Andrew Mitchell was forced to resign as the Tory Chief Whip last autumn because he called policemen at the Downing Street gates ‘plebs’. Then it turned out, as this column… Read more

Christopher Sykes

6 July 2013

I began my week with a trip to Bridlington, the closest seaside town to my childhood home. ‘Brid’, as it’s known to the locals, has a special British charm, comprising… Read more

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Tanya Gold reviews STK London

18 May 2013

STK is a steakhouse at the bottom of the ME Hotel on the Aldwych. (This is a real name for a real hotel. The cult of individualism has finally reached… Read more

The Spanish understand the pig and the sea

11 May 2013

Spain: an easy country to enjoy; very hard, even for Spaniards, to understand. I remember a dinner party, sitting next to a girl who seemed to want to talk about… Read more

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Tanya Gold reviews Potato Merchant

4 May 2013

Exmouth Market is a small collection of paved streets near the Farringdon Travelodge, which specialises in monomaniacal restaurants and has a blue plaque dedicated to the dead clown Joseph Grimaldi.… Read more

Tanya Gold reviews Attendant, London

23 March 2013

I love metaphor, and now metaphor has led me to a toilet near Goodge Street, in that thankless patch of London idiots call No-Ho. Because this is not a toilet… Read more

Tanya Gold reviews Balthazar

9 March 2013

Balthazar is a golden cave in Covent Garden, in the old Theatre (Luvvie) Museum, home to dead pantomime horses and Christopher Biggins’s regrets. It is a copy of a New… Read more

The judges of Food Glorious Food; Anne Harrison, Loyd Grossman,Tom Parker Bowles and Stacie Stewart with presenter Carol Vorderman Photo: Optomen / Syco

ITV’s Food Glorious Food is under the curse of Simon Cowell

2 March 2013

I sometimes worry that ITV — the middle child — doesn’t get enough of my attention and so this week I have decided to redress the balance: I devoted myself… Read more

Beer Price Rise Threatens Pubs

Real life

2 March 2013

Two pedantic nerds should not be allowed to come together in a small space. In any case, the guy who runs quiz night at The Black Swan and I have… Read more

The tastes of temptation

2 March 2013

There ought to be a wise adage: ‘If invited to do good works, always procrastinate. A better offer is bound to turn up.’ About a month ago, the phone rang.… Read more

Contamination

2 March 2013

A shrouded skull flanked by serpents above a tureen inscribed with the words, ‘There is death in the pot’ (2 Kings 4:40), ornaments the title page of A Treatise on… Read more

Day of judgment

26 May 2012

Why sheep? As a small boy, that thought sometimes occurred to me after a Church of Scotland service. In a Presbyterian dies irae, the Minister would have proclaimed the Son… Read more

Going ethnic

31 March 2012
An Economist Gets Lunch Tyler Cowen

Dutton, pp.304, $26.95

Tyler Cowen, a professor of economics at George Mason University, has been keenly interested in food for years. Besides being a blogger, scholar and the youngest chess champion in the… Read more

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A waist of shame

14 January 2012
Calories and Corsets: A History of Diets and Dieting Over 2000 Years Louise Foxcroft

Profile Books, pp.240, £14.99

Britain has the worst obesity rates in Europe, with one in four adults now clinically obese. A friend who works in orthopaedic surgery tells me that at least 80 per… Read more

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A History of English Food by Clarissa Dickson Wright

12 November 2011
A History of English Food Clarissa Dickson Wright

Random House, pp.500, 25

It is where cookery is involved that tele-vision gives perhaps the greatest succour to the book trade. After Jennifer Paterson’s death in 1999, the remaining ‘Fat Lady’ barrelled into view… Read more

Food: Rick’s place

6 August 2011

I am in Padstein. It used to be a fishing village, just north of Newquay. It was Padstow then. But then came Rick Stein. Padstein has the smell of a… Read more

Bookends: Not just for Christmas

2 July 2011

Sticky at Christmas, packed in serried rows around a plastic twig in an oval-ended paper-wrapped box with a picture of a camel train; dates in childhood were exotic. The mystery… Read more

Titbits and Crumbs

30 June 2011

Rising Star Austere times breed entrepreneurship. Artisan Ben Keane was made redundant before training as a patissier and starting up his own product range trading as Yeast Bakery in East… Read more

Cereal Offenders

30 June 2011

Padding into the kitchen at 10 BC (10 minutes Before Coffee) I find my young son, James, crying silently and uncontrollably with laughter behind a giant box of Golden Grahams.… Read more

Rage against the tagine: Capital mistake

30 June 2011

There’s nothing like following a theme: playing it safe, being on-message. Thus, we hear endlessly — from Michelin-starred chefs to their adoring throng — the mantra that ‘London is restaurant… Read more

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Scoff out

30 June 2011

LE RESTAURANT GASTRONOMIQUE Hotel Le Bristol, 112 Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris. +33 (0)1 53 43 43 00 lebristolparis.com by Jonathan Ray Hotel Le Bristol’s Restaurant Gastronomique is a swanky spot… Read more

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A-Z of Scoff

30 June 2011

S is for Sugar Fat used to be considered Public Food Enemy Number One, but now sugar is being fingered instead by some health campaigners. It’s not just the sugar… Read more