Tanya Gold reviews Potato Merchant

4 May 2013

Exmouth Market is a small collection of paved streets near the Farringdon Travelodge, which specialises in monomaniacal restaurants and has a blue plaque dedicated to the dead clown Joseph Grimaldi.… Read more

Tanya Gold reviews Attendant, London

23 March 2013

I love metaphor, and now metaphor has led me to a toilet near Goodge Street, in that thankless patch of London idiots call No-Ho. Because this is not a toilet… Read more

Tanya Gold reviews Balthazar

9 March 2013

Balthazar is a golden cave in Covent Garden, in the old Theatre (Luvvie) Museum, home to dead pantomime horses and Christopher Biggins’s regrets. It is a copy of a New… Read more

The judges of Food Glorious Food; Anne Harrison, Loyd Grossman,Tom Parker Bowles and Stacie Stewart with presenter Carol Vorderman Photo: Optomen / Syco

ITV’s Food Glorious Food is under the curse of Simon Cowell

2 March 2013

I sometimes worry that ITV — the middle child — doesn’t get enough of my attention and so this week I have decided to redress the balance: I devoted myself… Read more

Beer Price Rise Threatens Pubs

Real life

2 March 2013

Two pedantic nerds should not be allowed to come together in a small space. In any case, the guy who runs quiz night at The Black Swan and I have… Read more

The tastes of temptation

2 March 2013

There ought to be a wise adage: ‘If invited to do good works, always procrastinate. A better offer is bound to turn up.’ About a month ago, the phone rang.… Read more


2 March 2013

A shrouded skull flanked by serpents above a tureen inscribed with the words, ‘There is death in the pot’ (2 Kings 4:40), ornaments the title page of A Treatise on… Read more

Day of judgment

26 May 2012

Why sheep? As a small boy, that thought sometimes occurred to me after a Church of Scotland service. In a Presbyterian dies irae, the Minister would have proclaimed the Son… Read more

Going ethnic

31 March 2012
An Economist Gets Lunch Tyler Cowen

Dutton, pp.304, $26.95

Tyler Cowen, a professor of economics at George Mason University, has been keenly interested in food for years. Besides being a blogger, scholar and the youngest chess champion in the… Read more


A waist of shame

14 January 2012
Calories and Corsets: A History of Diets and Dieting Over 2000 Years Louise Foxcroft

Profile Books, pp.240, £14.99

Britain has the worst obesity rates in Europe, with one in four adults now clinically obese. A friend who works in orthopaedic surgery tells me that at least 80 per… Read more


A History of English Food by Clarissa Dickson Wright

12 November 2011
A History of English Food Clarissa Dickson Wright

Random House, pp.500, 25

It is where cookery is involved that tele-vision gives perhaps the greatest succour to the book trade. After Jennifer Paterson’s death in 1999, the remaining ‘Fat Lady’ barrelled into view… Read more

Food: Rick’s place

6 August 2011

I am in Padstein. It used to be a fishing village, just north of Newquay. It was Padstow then. But then came Rick Stein. Padstein has the smell of a… Read more

Bookends: Not just for Christmas

2 July 2011

Sticky at Christmas, packed in serried rows around a plastic twig in an oval-ended paper-wrapped box with a picture of a camel train; dates in childhood were exotic. The mystery… Read more

Titbits and Crumbs

30 June 2011

Rising Star Austere times breed entrepreneurship. Artisan Ben Keane was made redundant before training as a patissier and starting up his own product range trading as Yeast Bakery in East… Read more


A-Z of Scoff

30 June 2011

S is for Sugar Fat used to be considered Public Food Enemy Number One, but now sugar is being fingered instead by some health campaigners. It’s not just the sugar… Read more


Feverish Fairy

30 June 2011

No prizes for guessing who wrote this, or what the drink is: ‘There was very little left of it [in his hipflask] and one cup of it took the place… Read more

Big Red

30 June 2011

‘Dear mother, I’m feeling quite ill, From all of these bits off the grill; Nostrils and tits and unspeakable bits, Balls haven’t come yet, but they will!’ So wrote my… Read more

God of fire

30 June 2011

Tip 1: Fire Kettle, fire pit or gas-guzzler? These days, there’s a barbecue to suit every backyard, but before you get burned by the price, think carefully about when, where,… Read more


The buck stops here

30 June 2011

It’s time we as consumers realise our own power to change things, and reconnect with our farms, says Sybil Kapoor This May, the National Trust launched a radical social experiment.… Read more

Cereal Offenders

30 June 2011

Padding into the kitchen at 10 BC (10 minutes Before Coffee) I find my young son, James, crying silently and uncontrollably with laughter behind a giant box of Golden Grahams.… Read more

Rage against the tagine: Capital mistake

30 June 2011

There’s nothing like following a theme: playing it safe, being on-message. Thus, we hear endlessly — from Michelin-starred chefs to their adoring throng — the mantra that ‘London is restaurant… Read more


Scoff out

30 June 2011

LE RESTAURANT GASTRONOMIQUE Hotel Le Bristol, 112 Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris. +33 (0)1 53 43 43 00 by Jonathan Ray Hotel Le Bristol’s Restaurant Gastronomique is a swanky spot… Read more

Summer recipes

30 June 2011

Scottish Lobster with mussels by Jeff Bland I’ve been lobster fishing off the Hebridean island of Tiree and it’s fantastic to see the creatures from the moment they come out… Read more

How to be a beekeeper

30 June 2011

by James Hamill Beekeeping isn’t rocket science. A lot of it is common sense and keeping the bees and hive spotlessly clean. You don’t need lots of space; a small… Read more



30 June 2011

Hard-working, mercurial and good at playing mean – reformed hell-raiser Dominic West eats asparagus into the small hours with Imogen Lycett Green After nearly two decades hitting headlines as a… Read more