Time is of the essence

7 April 2011

We move through silent streets walled by shuttered houses and closed stores. I know that the French leave en masse in August, but in Cognac the ritual seems also to… Read more

A war of nutrition

5 February 2011
The Taste of War Lizzie Collingham

Allen Lane, pp.634, 30

The long summer that led up to the last days of peace in Europe in 1939 — the vigil of the Nazi assault on Poland on 1 September and the… Read more


Wonders of the world’s fare

11 December 2010

It was a slender hope, a moment of lunacy really, but I picked up Reinventing Food – Ferran Adrià: The Man Who Changed the Way We Eat by Colman Andrews… Read more


Brutal and brutalising

10 March 2010
Eating Animals Jonathan Safran Foer

Hamish Hamilton, pp.352, 20

In this book, Jonathan Safran Foer, the American novelist, tries to make us think about eating meat. He ate meat, then became a vegetarian, then ate meat again, then got… Read more