Food

Oporto: a touch of North Africa and no hipsters

Tripe, pale tawny port and LSD: the delicious flavours of Oporto

8 August 2015 9:00 am

‘When he’s away, the thing he misses about Porto is the tripe.’ I was talking to Eduarda Sandeman, wife of…

I Shop Therefore I Am (Dan Kitwood/Getty)

A fake fishing village, and the nastiest thing I’ve eaten as a restaurant critic

8 August 2015 9:00 am

Selfridges is skilled at making things that are not hideous (women) look hideous (women dressed as Bungle from Rainbow or…

Venetian restaurants know I’m English from the back

25 July 2015 9:00 am

The Gatto Nero — or ‘Black Cat’ — is in Burano, a tiny island in the Venetian lagoon. It is…

Susan Hill’s French notebook: My struggle to avoid local cuisine

11 July 2015 9:00 am

An overnight stop on the Ile de Ré taken between the St Malo ferry and the Quercy, where we always…

The joy of an empty Gordon Ramsay restaurant

11 July 2015 9:00 am

The Maze Grill is on a sinister street in Chelsea, between a small Tesco — a boutique Tesco? — and…

First he brought limp salad, and now it’s drizzling

The pitfalls of picnics (and how to avoid them)

4 July 2015 9:00 am

Strange, isn’t it, that despite having such famously terrible weather, we Brits are so fond of a picnic. It’s something…

The new Ivy doesn’t have the old magic (if there ever was any)

27 June 2015 9:00 am

The Ivy is a Playmobil-style faux-medieval restaurant in a triangular building opposite The Mousetrap; of the two, The Ivy is…

A fantasy world with its own perfumed air: the Colony Grill Room

13 June 2015 9:00 am

The Beaumont Hotel is a bright white cake in the silent part of Mayfair, where the only sound is Patek…

Fenchurch in the Sky Garden – like going for dinner in Total Recall

30 May 2015 9:00 am

Fenchurch is a restaurant that is scared of terrorists. It cowers at the top of 20 Fenchurch Street, a skyscraper…

Le Perche: every farmyard looks like a painting

Beauty, tragedy and black pudding: the delights of Normandy

16 May 2015 9:00 am

I am compiling a list of the best black puddings. It began in Spain when I encountered my first morcilla…

There’s only one place to mourn another Labour loss

16 May 2015 9:00 am

Ed is a plank. He was always a plank — and now he is in Ibiza being a plank. Plankety–plankety-plank:…

The surprising power of garlic

9 May 2015 9:00 am

Were the ancients right about garlic as a great healer? Professor Edzard Ernst investigates

Could any cook help me overcome my terror of tapioca?

9 May 2015 9:00 am

There are those who claim that this column is idiosyncratic. They have seen nothing yet. I am about to mention…

(Photo: Liavittone)

The Portrait restaurant: a secret glade of stone and brick, suspended above Trafalgar Square

2 May 2015 9:00 am

The Portrait Restaurant lives at the top of the National Portrait Gallery, London. It is fiercely modern, but likeable. You…

Does the English language need a Norwegian lesson?

25 April 2015 9:00 am

‘Ten Norwegian phrases that don’t exist in English but should,’ said the headline. So I had a little look, as…

The Ivy Chelsea Garden: Richard Caring has finally built a restaurant I admire

18 April 2015 9:00 am

The Ivy Chelsea Garden is a restaurant inside an Edwardian house disguised as a Tudor house on the King’s Road;…

A cemetery with cocktails: La Coupole and the spirit of the brasserie

4 April 2015 8:00 am

La Coupole, Montparnasse, is the grandest and most famous of the old pre-war Parisian brasseries; that is, if you have…

A censored hymn to motorway misery

28 March 2015 9:00 am

Service record The government is to form a design panel to improve motorway services stations. These have not always charmed…

What to do with a squirrel (without getting prosecuted)

21 March 2015 9:00 am

Squirrels have much to teach us – once they’ve finished eating our nuts

Kitty Fisher’s: proof that the PM has good taste in restaurants, if not in friends

21 March 2015 9:00 am

David Cameron is too cowardly, or too cynical, to debate with Ed ‘Two or Possibly Three Kitchens’ Miliband — which…

Is the Dorchester the designated grand hotel for fat people? The portions at its new grill say so

7 March 2015 9:00 am

The Dorchester Hotel, Park Lane, is a cake floating in space. All grand hotels create a parallel universe in which…

Rowleys is Did Mummy Love Me Really? food – and it’s perfect

21 February 2015 9:00 am

I think Rowley’s is the perfect restaurant; but I am really a gay man. Rowley’s is at 113 Jermyn Street…

Rivea: a London annexe to the world’s maddest expensive restaurant

7 February 2015 9:00 am

Rivea (stupid name) is in the bowels of Bulgari in Knightsbridge, a hotel which looks like a vast Virgin Upper…

I want to do for field rations what Jamie Oliver did for school dinners

17 January 2015 9:00 am

Hell’s Kitchen My ambition to open a fish and chip shop in Mogadishu has not happened yet, though I remain…

The real reason there’s a queue outside the Cereal Killer Café

10 January 2015 9:00 am

The Cereal Killer Café is a temple to cereal on Brick Lane, east London. It serves only cereal — and also…