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Wednesday, 30th July 2008

Cold beer, smiling people, stable growth: where Gordon should have gone on holiday

Paul Theroux, in The Great Railway Bazaar, paints a louche portrait of the capital of Laos. ‘The brothels are cleaner than the hostels, marijuana is cheaper than pipe tobacco and opium is easier to find than a cold glass of beer,’ he wrote in 1975. When Theroux finally got his beer, the waitress told him sex was on the menu too. Gosh, if only I’d know about Vientiane in my gap year. It might have taught me more about the real world than three months at the British Institute in Florence and a lost week in Fez. These days, of course, Laos is firmly on the gap-year trail, but Vientiane (one hour from Bangkok by air or 11 by train) has cleaned up its act. If you want a cold beer and a smoke in a pristine hostel, it’s not difficult to arrange. If you want to relax in a brothel with an opium pipe, well, I suspect you need to know the right people.

Actually, the Vientiane of 30 years ago had every excuse to resemble a 20th-century version of Hieronymus Bosch’s ‘Garden Of Earthly Delights’. Laos was emerging from the horrors of the Vietnam war, during which America had inflicted a sustained and brutal bombing campaign on this defenceless country. If you subscribe to the theory that US foreign policy since the second world war has been dictated by naked self-interest tinged with evil, then the bombing of Laos provides compelling evidence. Quite simply, thanks to the Yanks, Laos has the distinction of being the most bombed country per head of population in the history of the world, primarily because the strategic Ho Chi Minh Trail ran straight through it. These weren’t ordinary bombs either: some were built to explode late, causing maximum damage to life and limb; others were designed like tennis balls so children would pick them up. They are still picking them up today.
That’s why any tour of Vientiane must include the visitor centre at the Co-operative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise (Cope), where America’s legacy is exposed in chilling detail. Every year there are new casualties, mainly children, from unexploded bombs mistaken for toys or scrap. ‘Can you imagine the psychological damage that a sky permanently full of falling bombs could have done to the people of Laos?’ says the inspirational Jo Pereira, who runs the centre. ‘And yet they keep on smiling. They bear no resentment at all.’

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anon.

August 4th, 2008 11:10am

Dear Mr. Beaumont,

I have been living and working in Laos for the past six years and would like to offer a counter to your very naive article about Vientiane in 'city life', 30th july.

'Socialist Utopia'!!! Laos is one of the most corrupt countries in the world. Power and wealth is monopolised by a tiny ruling elite, there is no freedom of speech and criticism is absolutely forbidden. There is almost no rule of law, accountability or transparency. The last time anyone tried to suggest even the mildest democratic reform, the 'suggesters' were- well lets say- ruthlessly dealt with. The education and health care systems are amongst the worst in the world. You noticed the wonderful new Prime Ministers office being built, all the huge mansions going up and more SUV's and luxury vehicles than you would see in Chelsea. Did you visit any schools in Vientiane? or a hospital? Did you ask what a teacher or a doctors salary is? (about 40 US$ Per month)- I suspect not. Did you wander where all the money to pay for these huge buildings and cars comes from? Did you know the GNI per capita is 500 US$ (thats 41 $ per month!)

Look at some of the economic statistics of Laos. It is hugely in debt, its imports far outweigh its exports and the country is aid dependent. What economic activity there is dominated by foreigners, controlled by the ruling elite and used to enrich them, not the people.

You make the point that Vientiane is an 'expanding economy, exemplified by new buildings springing up everywhere, not expensive apartment blocks that no one can afford to live in'

The average price of land in the city is over 100 $ per square meter, house rental in the city averages about 150 $ per month, not to mention bills- these costs are well beyond the means the vast majority of Lao people.

You go onto to mention your dinner at a nice Pizzeria. How many Lao people did you see eating in there? The average cost of dinner at those places will be about 10$ minimum. With a GNI of 41 $ per month, how many Lao people do you think can afford to eat in these places?

Laos is surrounded by economic tigers, however, the result is that Lao can't compete with them in a globalised economy. Laos is inundated with Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese imports, which are cheaper and of a higher quality than anything Laos currently produces. Huge land concessions are being given to Chinese businesses and migrants and Vietnamese loggers, dispossessing normal Lao people of their land and their livliehood.

Family and community life in Laos are indeed very strong, and this is a positive thing- however, you might want to look at human trafficking, prostitution, drugs and petty crime and parents leaving for the West to make money for their children left behind in Laos, some of the highest infant, child and maternal mortality rates in the world- and how these things ravage a family and a community in ways that most in England could not imagine. You mentioned you went into one of the poorer areas of the city and got a suit made. I know where most of the tailor shops are in Vientiane, and they are not the poor parts! Moreover, if a family can afford the land and the property in the city to set up a business, they are not representative of the economic status of the vast majority of Lao people. There are poor areas of the city where you will see poverty- but I think you didn't get there. You could have stepped a little further out to the suburbs, or even the countryside (it's only 20 minutes from the city center) and there you would see how lao people live. And they are the ones who are lucky enough to live close to the capital. I could go on... I point you towards the work of Martin Stuart Fox and Grant Evans, amongst others, who can give you some serious insight into Laos. I would also suggest you read some of the economic and human development statistics and reports written by the UN, IMF, World Bank and many other NGO's working in Laos. I suggest you read some of Amnesty Internationals reports on Laos also. (no human rights monitors are allowed in laos, but they still mange to collect some information through various sources. Finally, I suggest you go back and read Animal Farm again, and tell me then if you think this is Snowballs or Napoleons creation!

Your suggestion that Gordon Brown should come to holiday in Laos and take notes from the Lao government is fantastic! I almost fell of my chair, either laughing or crying, I am not sure which. Britain is not perfect, but I suggest you do some human development and economic statisitcs comparisons with Laos. In Britain you have rule of Law, your rights are protected, your government is for the most part, highly competent, accountable and transparent. Everyone has access to good education and health care, opportunity and welfare. The problem you all have is you don't know how damned lucky you are to live in Britian and have the governments you have. Stop whining and take advantage of all the privelages and opportunity that you have. I feel sorry for British politicians sometimes, trying to keep you lot happy. Gordon Brown travels quite alot- and he reads alot- I suggest you all start doing the same. Come over here, not to the Pizzeria in the city center, but try and expereince something of the real Lao, read something and try to understand what is really happening here. Realise how lucky you are. I work with Lao people everyday. They dream about having the educational opportunities of British people-and they would make the most of it. Laos is a beautiful and fascinating place and Lao people are some of the most wonderful anywhere, but it has nothing to do with the things you talked about in your article. I would love to tell you about all the great things here, but you should really come and find out for yourself.

Looking at a bright, shiny vaneer, failing to look below the surface and absence of research is shoddy and irresponsible journalism.

Lao Anon.

August 5th, 2008 7:06am

I could not agree more. A poorly researched article with a blinkered view of the reality in Laos. This would be more suitable in a glossy travel magazine than the Spectator.

Vientiane expat

August 5th, 2008 9:54am

Socialism is a political system in which everyone has equal opportunities and in which the state provides free services such as education and health care and a welfare system. So you think Lao is a socialist utopia? Did you do any research? There is no welfare system, free healthcare or decent education. Unless of course you are a member of, connected to or can pay bribes to the powers that be. Do you think Gordon Brown needs to take notes from the Lao government? In Britain we have an exceptional welfare system, education and healthcare services, which everyone can access for free. Britain is far more socialist than Laos. By the way, alot of development projects and aid assistance in Laos is funded by the British government through its contributions to international organisations, NGO's and the EU development program. I hope that the Spectator- a respected national paper- could employ trained journalists who are capable of doing at least a little bit of research and achieving some insight. If this column is supposed to be a travel log- stick to that and don't make ignorant comments about the politics, economics and development of a country you know nothing about.

falang kee nok

August 5th, 2008 9:59am

Any comeback Mr. Beaumont? or are you too busy re-reading Animal Farm? Or maybe doing a little research before writing your next article.


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