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And Another Thing

Paul Johnson

Tuesday, 5th February 2008

When gobbling brawn is caviar to the general

There is more writing about food now than ever before, most of it feeble. There are exceptions. My Somerset neighbour Tamasin Day-Lewis descants admirably on the subject because she knows everything about the raw materials and has a stunning gift for turning that knowledge into noble repasts. She is quick and graceful too in cooking: watching her dance about her kitchen preparing a three-course meal reminds me of Margot Fonteyn performing Nutcracker. But most of the tribe are dull; off-putting too. All they convey is their own overweight greed.

My favourite writer on the subject is Lamb. Whenever he touched on it he struck gold. Consider his comments on a consignment of brawn, the work of a college chef, which his friend Manning sent from Cambridge:

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