The Spectator's short story for the holidays
In the Couderc that evening, Benoît, the young écailler, brought me my dozen oysters, open on the half shell, nestling in a gleaming bed of ice. He arranged the plate of bread, the cold butter, the little bowl of chopped shallots and red-wine vinegar neatly around them. He topped up my glass with chill Sauvignon Blanc. Bon appétit, Monsieur Hill, he said, with a tiny bow. I felt the seduction of France surround me again, its effortless, complex civilisation. ‘Merci infiniment, Benoît,’ I said and discreetly slipped him a 100-franc note.
What is it about the oyster and its curious, subtle narcosis? I drizzled lemon juice over them, added the tip of a teaspoon of shallots and vinegar to one, scraped the meat clear of its restraining muscle and forked it into my mouth, where I chewed the oyster, two or three bites (chewing is absolutely essential — the true oceanic taste is not otherwise released) and swallowed. A corner of bread, a swig of chill wine: it is a drug, and powerfully addictive, one could eat 100, 200 — some people do — but I always stop at 12.
I laid down my last shell. Closed my eyes for a moment, masticated. That taste.... I opened my eyes to see a tall man in a pistachio tweed suit entering the Couderc and looking around. He saw me and strode over. I recognised him instantly and felt a kind of falling, a nausea, as if I had driven too fast over a hump-backed bridge.
‘Yves Hill?’
‘Ah, yes?’
‘I’m Raleigh Maltravers.’
‘I’m sorry?’
‘Maltravers, Raleigh Maltravers.’
I allowed myself a baffled smile while my guts writhed like eels in a pot. ‘The name is vaguely familiar,’ I said, dabbing my mouth with my napkin, ‘have we met?’
‘We’re both in the same hotel,’ Maltravers said.
‘Simple but comfortable.’
Maltravers stroked his chin. For the first time I noticed he had a near-transparent blond half-goatee, a gesture at a Van Dyke beard but, oddly, no moustache. He gave a great exhalation, as if he had decided something very important.
‘I reviewed your novel Oblong. For Illuminations. George asked me.’
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