Stanley Johnson returns to Vietnam four decades after the offensive that shattered American confidence in the war — but reflects that the US went on to win the cultural battle
Returning to Vietnam after an absence of 17 years, I am struck by how much has changed. Of course, the symbols are still there. Ho Chi Minh is still the Revered Leader. In Hanoi last week I waited in line to pay my respects to Ho’s embalmed body at the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum. (They had to fly Ho’s corpse to Moscow for three months but, as far as I could tell, the Russians made a good job of it.) I queued again to visit the simple one-storey house where Ho Chi Minh lived until he died — in 1969 — with victory in sight if not yet achieved. Unless there is a Vietnamese Jung Chang out there somewhere, I doubt if we shall ever see the metaphorical defenestration of ‘Uncle Ho’.
The Glorious Revolution is still remembered. ‘Say not the struggle naught availeth!’ That could well be the motto of the Vietnamese nation. They fought the Japanese, the French, the Americans, even the Chinese. Vietnam’s increasingly frequented tourist trail includes some must-see war-related sites.
Take, for example, the Cu Chi tunnel complex, an hour or so outside HCMC. At the height of the Vietnam war, there were 150 miles of underground passages where complete divisions of the Liberation Army holed up to fight. Today, if you are thin enough, you can wriggle down through a trapdoor to follow a section of a tunnel. My guide explained: ‘Sometimes, the guerrillas would have to stay underground three months at a time. The B52s dropped approximately three kilograms of bombs for each square metre of land at Cu Chi. They took the powder from the unexploded bombs and made it into anti-tank mines.’
If you want a double-dose of propaganda, go to the War Relics Museum in HCMC where you can see a collection of captured American weaponry, including tanks and planes, as well as the so-called ‘Tiger Cages’ where America’s South Vietnamese Allies (the ‘puppet-regime’ of Diem and Thieu) kept its unfortunate prisoners.
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Vietnamese
January 31st, 2008 2:22pmThe thing is Westerners didn't and still don't get it, Vietnamese have never been anti-American, for goodness sake, Ho Chi Minh's opening line of the Declaration of Independence was a quote from the American one.
Ian
February 1st, 2008 3:22amI suggest when next in Ha Noi a visit to the the Ethnology Museum will be illuminating. On the ground floor is an exhibition of the subsidised economy period (Bao Cap)that was instituted after 1976 until the 'doi moi opening of the economy in 1986 This exhibition tells graphically of the privations suffered by all Vietnamese when this command economy regime ruled - a bar of soap was a luxury beyond compare for example. Now of course it is a 'market economy with socialist tendencies' and is booming. I too wondered why on earth that American war was fought.
dexey
February 1st, 2008 7:05pmThe war was fought to stop communist expansian in SE Asia and because the sainted Pres. Kennedy could do no wrong.
Capitalism was always going to win. It improves the majority of people's lives.
Jo
February 2nd, 2008 11:11amInteresting you still think in terms of winning and losing. Couldn't the war simply be an obscene intrusion into other people's lives?
david bennet
February 2nd, 2008 12:14pmIf we seriously believe that our way of life is better and more attractive than anyone else's, then we should just get on with living and wait for them to notice. Of course, we have to do it properly, and that means protectionism should be out and open borders in. But, to adapt George W. Bush: 'If you're not with us ... well, you will be, eventually!'
SPENCER
February 2nd, 2008 1:13pmIt's a pity that all the smart guys in the Pentagon and the Bush Government did not draw any lessons from Vietnam.If they adopted a more subtle approach to the Middle East things might have been different. Surely the days are gone when America can be the gun-slinger, Texan or otherwise. Get away from the old mind-set and your country will win more 'cultural wars'
Paul Gourju
February 2nd, 2008 4:02pmForty years ago, on the night of 30–31 January 1968, the Liberation Army, as it is now known here, launched its famous Tet offensive...My official host, a woman of about 40 sitting beside me in the back of the vehicle, suddenly burst into song. The interpreter went on to tell me: ‘During the war, Mrs Nguyen was one of the leaders of the guerrillas in this area.’ I had a sudden vision of a younger, possibly slimmer, black-pyjama-clad (more probably in swaddling cloths) Mrs Nguyen breathing under water through a rice-straw…precautious non?
Sonya Porter
February 2nd, 2008 7:56pmHow sad. Even your revered magazine has got it wrong. The only thing the Americans did wrong in Vietnam was to allow themselves to be defeated, not by the Communist forces of the north but by their own untutored, unworldly university students. It was all so simple. In 1954 the French were defeated and left Vietnam. There were then talks in Paris and finally it was decided to split the country into Communist North and Democratic South. The south, when I got there in 1963, was a vibrant,becoming-wealthy, almost too-democratic country with 24 political parties in the Parliament and 16 daily papers. But the Northern Communists started to move into the south and President Ngo then did two things. He put in place some laws which eventually ended in the priests burning themselves and a curtailing of democracy, and he also invited the Americans to send experts to train the Southern troops which had been excluded from defence forces during the French colonial period. However, the Southern Vietnamese troops could not be trained quickly enough and with the Communists rapidly taking over the north of South Vietnam, the President then asked the American to send troops. Yes, the Americans made mistakes as all troops do, but while I was in Saigon in 63 and 64, they were welcomed. It was still a time when the Domino Theory was in force, the fear that if one country in the far east fell to the Communists, the rest would follow and the South Vietnamese had fought the French and the Paris talks to achieve democracy. But the Students backed the Communists and American was defeated. My Vietnamese friends had the hell of a time after the fall of Saigon and I shall never forgive those stupid, blind students who knew nothing of life.
Andy Dyer
February 2nd, 2008 10:03pmIncredible though it may seem, Americans learnt nothing atall from their sensational defeat by a bunch of peasants fresh out of the jungle. Ask them some time and hear them splutter.
Or ask them how many people died - 9 out of 10 will say 58,000. Tell them they're out by a factor of 50 and they'll look blank and accuse you of being a commie.
B, Phillips
February 3rd, 2008 4:11amCan best be described as a totalitarian free market, with a wealthy aristocracy composed of party members; no free press, no free education or health care. Much as the regime in China and seems to be the ultimate fate of all communist regimes.
heavy kevvie
February 3rd, 2008 6:52amwhat malarky,the americans LOST the war against the vietnamese.this was a war of guns,ideology and liberation from colonialism.no matter how much blood,treasure and bombs the US threw into vietnam they left defeated.vietnam has changed due to more influences from all over the world than just america.