Wednesday 9 July 2008

 

The latest culture as recommended by our staff

Liz Anderson

Liz suggests


Venice is the only city on earth going backwards

Wednesday, 6th February 2008

Stephen Bayley rejects the sentimentality that locks the city in the past and that resists every invasion of modernity except tourism. The place is a corpse

Ruskin and James wanted Venice kept in a state of picturesque poverty. James resented modern plumbing because it would deny him the sight of washerwomen struggling with huge ewers and pitchers. He resisted the industrialisation of glass-making because it would reduce the number of bead-stringers whose back-breaking labour he enjoyed contemplating. Never mind that vaporetti and factories might help Venetians prosper — filthy old conditions were better for art. ‘The misery of Venice,’ James said, ‘is part of the spectacle ...it was part of the pleasure.’ To James, Venetian beggar girls were at their very best when starved and wearing thin, exhausted, limp clothing: ‘it would certainly make an immense difference if they were better fed.’

The dubious morality here has its equivalent in our own uncertain responses to conservation. Native Venetians, maintained in a state of grinding poverty and denied every modern convenience, might be a terrific artistic stimulus for American and British writers cocooned in the Danieli or the Gritti, but did little to help Venice itself prosper in a meaningful way. Something similar is happening now.

Nineteenth-century writers and artists were the prototypes for generations of later English and Americans visitors who wanted a delicious dalliance with a Venice preserved with the fastidious accuracy of Canaletto. Italian nationalists differed. The slightly potty futurist F.T. Marinetti thought Venice a ‘jewelled hip bath for cosmopolitan courtesans ...a great sewer of traditionalism’. On the evening of 8 July 1910 Marinetti ambushed travellers arriving home from the Lido, shouting ‘We want electric lamps brutally to cut and strip away ...your mysterious, sickening, alluring shadows! Your Grand Canal, widened and dredged, must become a great commercial port. Trains and trams, launched on wide roads built over canals that have finally been filled-in will bring you mountains of goods and a shrewd, wealthy, busy crown of industrialists and businessmen.’

More articles from: Stephen Bayley | this section

Subscribe now

Post this entry to:   del.icio.us | Digg | Newsvine | NowPublic | Reddit

Comments

Post a comment


Your comment:*

Your name:*

Your email address:*
(We won't publish this)

*Required information

Please click the button only once - your comment will not be published immediately

Amanda Marie

February 8th, 2008 1:43am

Well I agree that the citizens of Venice deserve to have their chance at modernization, I've also seen the poetical side of Venice, that historical mysticism that historians yearn to keep alive. Venice cannot possibly be the dead, corpse of a city you describe. The streets are filled with life! It takes no great imagination to see the past here. It's a place where one can see what used to be sand transformed from glass into a horse in less than a minute before your eyes! For me it inspired a story, for others a dream...if indeed it did inspire a dead city with no life or culture for yourself, than perhaps it's time you re-visited the city with a poet's eyes. Gracie.

David

February 8th, 2008 5:55am

I can't work out if this piece is sincere, or merely tongue in cheek provocation. I note that the famous Marinetti quote in which he recommends filling in the Grand Canal and driving racing cars along it is not included above. Perhaps this is because it is normally used to demonstrate just how completely nutty this inspirer of fascism was. The more industrialised, visually banal, and homogenous the world becomes, the more imperative it is that we value, maintain, and preserve cities such as Venice. I admit that reconciling the traditions of such a place with the demands of modernity and mass tourism presents an enormous challenge, but the idea that this unique city should simply be brought up to date for the sake of 'convenience' seems to me grossly insensitive. We should not allow romantic commonplaces about Venice to obscure the fact that it is a city which preserves in a mercifully intact state some of the important moments in Western - indeed world - visual culture. To see buildings, paintings and sculpture in such abundance and in their original, largely unspoiled context is an experience without parallel anywhere in the world. It has been suggested that the architectural fabric of the city is so closely woven as to be considered a single, immensely complex building. To insert faddish pieces of modern architecture into this seems to me rather like a restorer painting a pair of Nike trainers onto, say, a damask-clad senator by Carpaccio. Yes, it may sometimes be inconvenient to have to live in a city which often resembles a large open-air museum, but that's just too bad, I'm afraid.

Sara Harpenden

February 8th, 2008 11:13pm

Stephen Bayley is right to jibe at some of the gawping tawdriness of modern tourism which seems to have become the chief reason for Venice's continued preservation. My own pet irritation is the concerts given in churches and scuole grandi, in which Vivaldi's Four Seasons so inevitably and repetitively feature, and in which the performers are got up in absurd perruques and other eighteenth-century trappings, as if it would somehow diminish the experience to pointlessness for them to appear in modern concert dress and vary their programme a little. But behind the shallow smile of 'hellovenezia' I think there is something worth keeping in Venice as a museum - a rare glimpse of a European urban skyline pierced only by spires and campaniles - and a small vision of what a modern mercantile city-state like Hong Kong might have been like if it had grown up in centuries past. And there are enough other great cities - such as London, Rome, Jerusalem and Istanbul - where the archaeological strata lie just beneath the surface of a crowded modern life, to make it worth sparing the quaint counterpoint of Venice preserved.

jorge ryder

February 9th, 2008 10:01pm

architects cannot just stay away from prime space... talk about Canaletto: what has happened to London speaks for itself ... the fact that Venice has become an important spot in the Comtemporary Art map is the opposite of supposedly only going backwards...


In this section

A portrait of the artist as a tennis champion

Melissa Kite

Melissa Kite meets Martina Navratilova, nine times Wimbledon singles champion and now pioneer of ‘tennising’ — an artistic technique that creates Jackson Pollock-style patterns

Et tu, Scott? Bush’s press aide turns on his boss

James Forsyth

James Forsyth talks to Scott McClellan, former press secretary to the President, about his new book attacking the Bush administration, its methods and its deceits

The Law Lords are right to resist the government

Lord Lloyd of Berwick

Lord Lloyd of Berwick says that the government’s emergency legislation to overturn their lordships’ ruling on witness anonymity is part of a ‘gradual usurpation’ of our liberties

I was starstuck by David Cameron

Steven Berkoff

In the week of the Spectator Summer Party, Steven Berkoff recalls another of our celebrations at which he sought out the Tory leader and forgave his confusion of Brando and Dean

How to get stabbed: you, too, can be knifed in a public place

Rod Liddle

Rod Liddle says that it helps to be aged between 14 and 30, white and male. Being drunk and argumentative speeds things along. And no public policy seems to dissuade those who do the stabbing

Related articles

Too close for comfort

Mary Kenny

Mary Kenny on the new book from Eunan O'Halpin

Even middle-class children are suffering from neglect

Rachel Johnson

Rachel Johnson says that working mothers, divorce, Polish nannies and an obsession with extra-curricular activities mean that our children are seeingless of their parents than at any time in the last 100 years

Umbrian idyll

Taki

Taki lives the High Life

Sorry, but apologies really are the work of the Devil

Anna Blundy

Saying ‘sorry’ is mostly wicked and usually irrelevant, says Anna Blundy. People should not be allowed to dump their inner shame so easily

A manual for our times

Matthew d'Ancona

Matthew d'Ancona on the new book by Philip Bobbitt

Spectator recommends

Britannia - Weekend Breaks Across the UK

Choose from a full range of fantastic weekend getaways across the UK with Britannia Hotels. Book online for deals on...

IOW break with Red Funnel

Short break fares from only £34 check availability now.


Spectator classifieds

ROME CENTRE

PORTA METRONIA, ROME Standing high on the top of one of the seven hills of Rome- the Coelian- this unique

City Breaks. ROME and PARIS

ROME and PARIS: over 350 holiday rentals apartments listed: visit  www.romanreference.com  and  www.parisreference.com or call +39 0648 903612.

Jewellery. RUFFS (Estd. 1904).

Goldsmiths by Design Welcome to Ruffs!  You have found a company of Goldsmiths that specialises in the manufacture, amongst other