It was inevitable: no sooner had we driven past the signposts to Condom than the guffaws started. My wife, Marina, and my mother giggled like schoolgirls, cracking dire jokes about French letters and Dutch caps, prompting even six-year-old Ferdy to join in. ‘Something for the weekend, sir?’ he chirruped from the back seat, silencing us all. It was going to be a long day.
I fell in love with Gascony earlier this year while researching the delights of Armagnac and had vowed to return en famille for our summer hols. Marina, loath to be done out of her fortnight on the beach, had taken some persuading. She was unmoved by the prospect of a gite with pool, set in unspoilt country dotted with mediaeval villages, forests and vineyards. Nor was she swayed by the promise of unlimited foie gras, magret de canard and confit (she has a thing about duck), fine wine and bucketloads of Armagnac.
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Few tourists see the buildings, birds and flowers of Leon and Burgos, says Simon Courtauld
Jeremy Clarke tries the high life at the Carlton hotel, St Moritz
Joseph Connolly reveals a life-long obsession with hats
The French President’s strop is more eloquent than any policy or speech, says Celia Walden. He is a pint-sized de Gaulle regularly made to look a fool by his wife
Anthony Caro’s Chapel of Light
Church of St-Jean-Baptiste, Bourbourg
The Barbarians and Clay works
Musée des Beaux-Arts, Calais, until 23 February 2009
Paper works and Table sculptures
Musée de Gravelines, until 21 February 2009
Steel sculptures
Lieu d’Art et d’Action Contemporaine, Dunkirk, until 21 February 2009
Lindy Woodhead on Gascony
Emma Soames goes house-hunting
Jonathan Ray goes stays in a treehouse for his holiday
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