Charlotte Metcalf finds a friend on the Mamma Mia! island
To the north of the island of Skopelos is a huge rock topped by a tiny monastery. Below it lies a bay of sparkling, turquoise sea. It used to be a beautiful, quiet place to swim. Then Mamma Mia! hit the screens. The monastery was the site of the movie’s big wedding finale so now the bay heaves with boats and the rock swarms with pilgrims climbing to gawp at the ‘Mamma Mia Church’. All rooms in Skopelos are now booked up two years ahead.
Mamma Mia! was shot partly in Pelion, Greece’s ‘heel’, and on the islands of Skopelos and Skiathos in the northern Sporades. My husband has been holidaying in Skiathos since 1962 when his parents built a house there. Now we have our own house, so I was curious to see how the film portrayed the island.
I hardly recognised the paradise of deserted golden beaches, unspoilt forests and charming villages inhabited by donkeys and smiling people. Donna, the character played by Meryl Streep, owns a guesthouse. She may be struggling financially but her lifestyle is enviable. All her guests are good-looking and fabulously, expensively dressed. In her world there are no tourists, sun-reddened and beer-bloated, who spill off the ferries and charter flights (on Fridays alone, 24 planes land on Skiathos, 15 from Britain). There are no concrete hotels, building sites, overflowing dustbins, ugly supermarkets, ‘poolside bars’ or crowded tavernas selling egg and chips alongside the tired souvlaki and moussaka. Neither are there endless tatty shops flogging flip-flops, lilos, tawdry trinkets and suntan lotion. It never rains.
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Nigel Haywood
September 5th, 2008 11:56am'All rooms on Skopelos are booked up for the next two years' - Where did you get this from? It's absolute nonsense.