‘You’re mad to go there!’ My cousin, a seasoned traveller, wasn’t the only person to counsel against a visit to Georgia. Others told stories of ministerial murder, civil war, torture and abduction. The Foreign Office advises travellers to be aware of the ‘potentially high levels of crime, including kidnapping involving foreigners’. But the advice came too late, the ticket was booked.
‘There are many similarities between Georgia and the Highlands,’ our ambassador Donald MacLaren said as we narrowly missed a giant pothole in Tbilisi’s main drag. It was a wet Remembrance Sunday and earlier that morning, dressed in the family tartan, MacLaren had led a service on his bagpipes to a group of expatriate mourners. The start was marred by the discovery that the Soviets had covered Allied gravestones with a tower block. Luckily Maida, Donald’s glamorous and resourceful wife, saved the day and located a neglected British headstone in someone’s backyard.
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