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Saturday 22 November 2008

Tales from the riverbank

Rory Knight Bruce revels in the tranquillity of Kelso

There can be few more gentle prospects in all Scotland than looking across the waters of the Tweed at Kelso to the low, shimmering crenellations of Floors Castle beyond. In the 19th century C.J. Apperley in Nimrod’s Hunting Tours called the river the ‘Rex fluviorum’, and H.V. Morton in In Search of Scotland, that masterpiece of travel writing, described the small town, with its square, churches and shops, as being of French appearance, which it is.

Neither, however, experienced, as I did, the pinnacle of a fisherman’s career, to be given a day alone on the Upper Floors Beat, owned by the Duke of Roxburghe, which lies a glorious mile and a half of double banks beneath his ducal seat. Silence and serenity engulf the fisherman here, where to cast chest-deep within the flowing waters of the Tweed is very heaven.

The preferred months are October and November (on account of the large number of salmon), when fishermen congregate to try their hand and patience over the whole length of the Tweed, from its small beginnings near Moffat to the wide port bar of Berwick-upon-Tweed. But the Upper Floors Beat, which can be taken by four rods each day, or the Junction Pool, nearer the town (owned by House of Hardy), should be the dream and destination of every true riparian.

Such opportunities are limited, and to be in with a chance at Floors on any of their beats it is necessary to stay at the Roxburghe Hotel, two miles out of Kelso, owned by the estate. This is no hardship as this gracious establishment, with its library, award-winning chef in Keith Short (haggis bread a speciality), airy bedrooms and lawns, inspires tranquillity.

George Mack, the young general manager, has been here for almost 20 years. He presides over a rhythm among all staff that is attentive, unobtrusive and thoughtful. Sportsmen, families or couples celebrating a special occasion would be equally at home here. It was a welcome sight to see guests elegantly changed for dinner, ladies in pearls and men in cashmere sweaters.

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