Dylan Jones discovers the Milan that exists behind closed doors
I once called Milan the ugliest city in Italy, which in hindsight is unfair, if still not far from the truth. Here, in the country’s northern powerhouse, everything lies behind closed doors, and the beautiful mediaeval gardens and tree-lined courtyards can only be found if you sneak into the gothic and neoclassical palazzi that litter the city like grey, smog-covered birthday cakes.
Rather than displaying its finery for all to see, Milan is a place that offers its treats on a strictly need-to-know basis. Unlike any other city in Italy, Milan’s modus operandi seems to be one of disguise. This is perhaps apt as Milan is also — obviously, empirically — the centre of the fashion world. You only have to spend five minutes walking through the ‘Golden Triangle’ — the shopping area bordered by Via Montenapoleone, Via della Spiga and Via Sant’Andrea — to realise that however fashion-conscious you think us Brits have become, the Italians will always do it with more class.
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