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Saturday 22 November 2008

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Fashion’s hidden secret

Dylan Jones

Wednesday, 25th July 2007

Dylan Jones discovers the Milan that exists behind closed doors

The tiniest of trattorias, Miuccia Prada, Paul Smith and Christopher Bailey all break bread there, as well as considering the baked cheeseballs, Tuscan rigatoni and the table Barolo. Even though you’re in the middle of the greatest concentration of designer shops anywhere in the world (apart from, maybe, Moscow), once you’re inside, the Torre feels as though it could be anywhere — Siena, Turin, or indeed Puglia.

Sightseeing isn’t going to eat into your time much — be sure to visit the recently cleaned Duomo, the Pinacoteca di Brera and the convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie (to see Leonardo’s ‘Last Supper’) — so you may as well spend it reacquainting yourself with Italy’s ragione d’essere. Which means bresaola, rucola and parmigiano salad, prosciutto, speck, branzino and large bottles of rich, if overpriced amarone. And when you’ve had enough of the city, do what the residents do and escape to the lakes, up to Como or Varenna. Order a Campari and soda and drink a toast to the one Italian city that won’t hold it against you when you leave.

Dylan Jones is the editor of GQ and author of Mr Jones’ Rules for the Modern Man.

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