The Sportsman at Seasalter

March, 2009

Having moved back to the UK after 13 years in Australia, we are now living on the outskirts of Canterbury in Kent. Here the locals are a bit spoilt because in the vicinity of Whitstable, Faversham and Canterbury there are some excellent places to eat, all doing there own thing. 

It is the wife’s birthday so I thought it was time to return to The Sportsman, a gastro pub which is on the on the old coastal road between Whitstable and Faversham, and a favourite during visits to the Old Dart over the years. It’s a cold dark winter’s night at the end of January and I wanted to go somewhere that has great food but is relaxed and informal. 

It is often said that a major part of the pleasure or otherwise gained from a destination is the journey itself. And so it is with the Sportsman for me. 

I enjoy wending my way there, down the hill towards Whitstable, turning left into Joy Lane past some substantial houses on towards the Seasalter marshes, past a housing estate, a pub with a letter missing from its illuminated sign, then a caravan park, with the sea wall to our right before we come upon the white painted Sportsman pub. It is a great and interesting location that adds to the experience and the character of the Sportsman. 

Stephen Harris took over the Sportsman in November 1999 with no formal training but a burning desire to use fresh local ingredients to create sensational food similar to Michelin starred London restaurants but without the expense and intimidating atmosphere and in a pub. 

Nearly ten years on the Sportsman has a Michelin star but, more importantly, an ever growing legion of fans. 

As we enter the large and airy but inviting wooden floored main room on this bleak night we are greeted by friendly staff behind the bar, who ask us if we have been here before. They explain that the menu, which is on the blackboard, changes depending upon what ingredients are available and ask what would we like to drink. In a nice touch we are warned gently that there is a big group due shortly so we might want to get our order in. No pressure just sensible. 

With a glass of Pol Roger NV in our hands we peruse the blackboard. All dishes on offer look tempting and as an act of largesse I offer to have my wife’s second choice of dishes so she can taste them. 

Having ordered we take to our table in one corner of the room. At this stage there is only two other diners in the pub but within 45 mins the place is full. Good on a Tuesday night in January during a recession. The Pol Roger is a perfect start and to me is a consistent and attractive aperitif, arousing a sense of expectation as well as our appetites. 

The surrounds are bright, comfortable and cheerful with tables made of reclaimed timber and walls adorned with artwork and photographs. We take up the offer of soda bread and white loaf with onions fried in the crust, both baked on site, served with green olives and olive oil. Simple but delicious. 

For starters we had Smoked Mackerel and Crab Apple jelly with home made soda bread and Purple Sprouting Broccoli served with a Poached Egg. To accompany these dishes we selected a glass of 2007 Jackson Estate Green Lip Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand and a glass of 2007 Pierre Sparr Pinot Blanc Réserve from Alsace, France. The Sauvignon with its tropical fruit and slightly herbal character and the Pinot Blanc with pear and citrus characters and off dry texture brought out the flavours nicely.    

The mains chosen by the birthday girl were Fillet of Turbot with Pigs Belly, an interesting combination that worked, and Crispy Duck with Smoked Chilli Salsa served on a bed of Green Cabbage with Sour Cream. We washed these down with a glass of 2005 Canaletto Primitivo from Puglia, Italy and a glass of 2007 Runnymede Island Pinot Noir from Marlborough, New Zealand.   

The Primitivo was rich with velvety prune and fruit cake characters so typical of Southern Italy which were a little overpowering for the dishes but never-the-less it was an enjoyable wine. 

Duck and Pinot Noir is a classic combination and was not disappointing in this instance whilst the vibrant strawberry and plummy fruit tempered by the acidity of this medium bodied wine complemented the fish dish. 

For pudding we shared a Banana Parfait served with a Caramel Wafer and Chocolate Ice Cream. Somewhat of a heavenly indulgence. 

The emphasis at the Sportsman is very much fresh, seasonal, local ingredients prepared confidently in a simple but interesting manner that allows the produce to express itself. The food is not fussy, just really flavoursome and honest yet inspirational. 

It is a place that delivers on its philosophy. It not only talks the talk, it walks the walk. 

The Sportsman

Faversham Road

Seasalter

Whitstable Kent CT5 4BP 

Tel 01227 273370