Monday 9 November 2009

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A Baker’s Dozen of Reds for Spring

April, 2009

The days are longer and there are heady aromas in the garden with great splashes of colour. The weather is variable, with one day bright and sunny nudging the twenties, the next day cold and wintery. For supper you might be huddled near the aga or the open fire one night, then sitting outside on the lawn, terrace, or patio basking in late afternoon sunshine while hubby is burning the lamb chops on the barbeque the next. 

In addition seasonal spring food is coming on stream with delights like asparagus, broccoli, cauliflower, cod, crab, duck, new potatoes, John Dory, kiwi fruit, purple sprouting broccoli, radishes, rhubarb, rocket, salmon, sea bass, sea trout, spinach, spring lamb, sorrel, spring onions, watercress and wood pigeon. Lots of fresh vibrant flavours to get excited about. 

As you well know you have to be prepared and flexible in this climate and this includes your choice of wine. You need wines that have just enough richness and oomf to be enjoyed with a hearty meal on the colder days and yet light enough to slurp on a warm, dare I say hot, day. 

I asked our esteemed and ever vigilant wine merchant partners to suggest some wines that may be classified as Spring Reds. It was an interesting and eclectic selection they sent us with, as they say in show business, something for everyone. 

Here are my tasting notes on these wines and I have linked them to the appropriate page on the wine merchant’s web page to make it easy to purchase if you so desire. 

They are not in any order of merit but I have put the lighter wines first and increasing in weight.

So I encourage you to explore and enjoy, relying on the skill and experience of these merchants to sniff out interesting, good value wines. 
 

1. Maulin Bèle, Sancerre Rouge, Domaine André Vatan, 2007,

£13.95 from Yapp Brothers 

It is not every day that you taste a red Sancerre and this wine made from ripe Pinot Noir grapes from 30-year-old vines planted on calciferous soil is ideal for Spring. The Vatans, who have 10 hectares of vineyard within the appellation of Sancerre and one hectare outside which is classified as a Vin de Pays du Cher, understandably concentrate on Sauvignon Blanc, however 10% of production is Pinot Noir. 

Light but bright in colour, it has a brambly, fruity nose giving aromas of summer fruits. To taste it is a light to medium weighted wine with attractive berry fruit flavours and a chalky dry finish. An interesting wine that could be served chilled. 16/20.
 

2.  Saumur Rouge, Cave de Saumur, 2007

£6.95 from Yapp Brothers 

This light to medium bodied wine is simply just great fun and should be the wine for this Summer, regardless if it comes or not. 

Bright crimson with purple hues introduces lifted berry fruit, summer pudding and typical Cabernet Franc aromas with a slight but pleasant stalkiness or hint of forest floor. To drink, and you will want to, it is bright and lively, slurpable with nice chalky tannins and some length. Simple but delicious, not sickly. A bowl of freshly picked berries such as blackberries, blackcurrants and raspberries. Great with rich fish soup or marinated and barbequed chicken. 17.5/20  
 

3. L’Arpenty Chinon, Francis et Françoise Desbourdes, 2007

£10.95 from Yapp Brothers 

Quite dark in colour, there are lovely raspberry aromas typical of Cabernet Franc and pleasant stalkiness. The palate is fresh, lively and firm with plenty of attractive berries making it perfect with Spring lamb or a BBQ. 16/20
 

 4. Pinot Noir, Esterházy, Burgenland, Austria, 2007

£10.60 from Tanners Wines 

These guys are no newcomers having crafted wines for over 300 years and introduced Pinot Noir into Burgenland in 1758. 

Light red in colour, pretty strawberry and cherry fruit aromas aplenty with some pleasant stalky and farm characters that make the wine interesting. To taste this is a clean bright wine displaying a touch of spiciness and loads of fruit. A good choice for spring. 16/20
 

5. Pinot Noir, Eradus Wines, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2007

£11.89 from Corney & Barrow 

From the Brêloft Vineyard which is planted on stony river terraces in the Awatere Valley between the Southern Alps and the Pacific Ocean. 

Light and bright red colour, lifted strawberry and fresh raspberry aromas complemented by some well handled oak. To taste there is delightful generous pure fruit that is true to the nose with a savoury oak background and a touch of asian spice. Excellent drinking and good value. 16.5/20
 

6. Cuvée Margot, Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne, 2006

£12.79 from Corney & Barrow 

Brick red in colour this wine is slightly subdued on the nose initially but shows stewed fruit and sweet and sour characters and some soy. On the palate it is a restrained, taut wine, almost linear and mineral yet there is attractive cherry and strawberry flavours. Interesting wine. 16/20
 

7. Volnay, Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau, Cote de Beaune, Burgundy, 2006

£21.69 from Corney & Barrow 

Bright brick red colour introduces lifted generous fruit aromas such as strawberry and cherry melding with oak and mineral notes, all very beguiling and complex. Good stuff! Great on the palate as well, showing great poise, generous fruit, good length, fine tannins, strawberry and sweet and sour. Certainly worth the price and perfect for pigeon or duck. 17.5/20
 

8. Brouilly, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Joubert, Beaujolais, Burgundy, 2006

£10.99 from Corney & Barrow 

Made from old Gamay vines and without filtration or preservatives this is a delightfully rustic wine, oozing with herbal and savoury notes plus a pinch of earthiness as well as violets and funky berry fruit characters. To drink it is a medium bodied wine with fruit and savoury flavours, quite generous and slightly drying tannins. This all adds up to an attractive and interesting wine to have with mushrooms or casseroles. 16/20 
 

9. Pavillon du Château Beauchêne, Cotes du Rhône, 2007

£8.17 from Private Cellar 

Delightful bright fruit aromas with red currant and white pepper spice. A very attractive vibrant wine, medium bodied, alluring spice, fine tannins. I can see why people are talking up the 2007 Rhone wines. Fantastic Spring red and excellent value. 17/20
 

10. Ique Malbec, Bodega Foster, Mendoza, Argentina, 2007

£7.93 from Private Cellar 

Deep dark berry fruit bouquet such as blackberry and black currant. In the mouth there is a fantastic velvety richness that goes on forever. Very easy to drink and great value. Perfect for Spring. 16.5/20
 

11. Terre degli Eventi, Basilicata IGT, Alovini, 2008

£7.50 from Tanners Wines 

Inky and dark purple in colour, there are vibrant bright blueberry and boysenberry fruit aromas jumping out of this wine from the south of Italy. It is a plush, juicy compote of fruit with reasonable length and some tannin to balance it. Simple, easy drinking and a good companion for the first outdoor grills of the season. 16/20 
 

12. La Combe de Grinou, Bergerac, France, 2007

£7.29 from Corney & Barrow 

A blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon there are blackberry and violets on the dense, brooding nose with some stalky characters. On drinking this wine has attractive blackberry fruit in a simple, elegant and slightly tart way. A good cohort for roast lamb. 15.5/20
 

13. Leylines Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia, 2007,

£11.45 from Private Cellar 

Rich, vibrant fruit aromas with nuances of oak. To taste it is quite youthful displaying attractive blueberry and summer fruit flavours with some background earthiness. It is long, supple, velvety and typical of McLaren Vale. Another good Spring wine. 17/20

 

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The party season is almost upon us, so here is a selection of excellent value wines which you will be delighted to give your guests, in quantity. There is a slight problem of course. If you offer them cheap and nasty wine, at least they won’t drink too much. That may be good for their livers, and even more health-giving if they’re driving. On the other hand, if you provide these bottles, they will come back time and again for more, while making the odd flattering remark, such as, ‘This is awfully good, you must have spent a packet.’ In fact, all of them are provided by the Colchester Wine Company at a considerable discount; as a consequence they all cost less than £100 a case which, with the pound continuing to slide, is pretty good.

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