Mourvédre – a red wine and grape variety that spices up life.

May, 2009

Mourvédre is one of those grape varieties that seems almost to lurk in the shadows or perhaps it is a selfless hard working type that contributes much but rarely holds the spotlight. 

Around the world it is generally used to blend with Grenache and Syrah (Shiraz) bringing structure and intensity as well as savoury and sometimes blackberry characters to the final wine. It adds another dimension, more complexity and can change a wine from being a bit frivolous to an intriguing experience. 

On its own Mourvédre can be very upright with drying tannins and dark brooding fruit. At its best it displays herbal, spicy character, leather, tar and some gaminess, however it is susceptible to developing over the top animal aromas or reduced smells similar to old or rotten eggs if not handled properly in the winery. 

Mourvédre is often found in Cotes du Rhone and in Chateauneuf de Papes playing the support act to Syrah and Grenache. It provides some flesh and structure as well as adding a new dimension of interesting characters to counter the sweetish Grenache or the austerity of Syrah. It is widely used in other appellations in the Southern Rhone. 

It has enjoyed a renaissance in the south of France over recent years, where it has long been a major player in the wines of Bandol in Provence and is being used with excellent results in the Languedoc and Roussillon. Simon Hoggart selected the 2004 Château La Roque Mourvédre from Pic-St-Loup for the May Mini Bar offer from Tanners describing it as “ a gorgeous wine — silky, velvety, spicy — one to sip and savour.” However I fear it may now have sold out. Contact Tanners as I am sure a new vintage will be forthcoming. 

In Spain, where it is thought to have originated, it is known as Monastrell and is the fourth most planted grape variety, thriving in the dry warm conditions, particularly in the wine regions around Valencia on the Mediterranean coast. Wines vary in quality but are improving. 

Mourvédre is susceptible to powdery and downy mildew and needs plenty of sunshine, warmth and dryness to grow and ripen properly, so it is generally not found north of the Rhone. 

There are some old plantings in Australia and California, where it has been known as Mataro but is more likely to be called Mourvédre these days. In South Australia old gnarled Mataro vines can be found in the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, where most, though not all, were saved from an ill conceived vine pull scheme in the 1980’s, by the likes of Rocky O’Callaghan of Rockford Wines and Charlie Melton of Charles Melton. Australian winemakers have now rediscovered how well Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvédre (Mataro) work together and there are many good examples of what are known as GSMs. There are also some fine straight varietal Mourvédres such as d’Arenberg’s The Twenty-Eight Road Mourvédre from McLaren Vale, Hewitson’s Old Garden Mourvédre and Turkey Flat’s Mourvédre from the Barossa Valley. 

In California Mourvédre was championed in the 1990’s by the “Rhone Rangers” which included the likes of Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon and also Cline Cellars. This lead to a resurgence and an increase in plantings. Tablas Creek, a joint venture between Robert Hass and the Perrin family who own Chateau de Beaucastel, near Paso Robles has received acclaim for its Mourvédre.

By itself Mourvédre can be a brawny tough customer with plenty of tannin, intensity and length as well as savoury, herbal and spicy notes. But it also has its feminine side with violets, blackberry and even lavender when properly ripe. Sometimes you just have to let it sort itself out quietly in the cellar for a few years but it is often worth it. 

For most of us Mourvédre will remain a team player adding certain touches towards a winning wine blend from the likes of the South of France, Spain, Australia or California but rarely snatching the mike and drawing attention to itself. 

Mourvédre makes the world a little bit more interesting and I doff my hat towards it.