The sparkling future of English & Welsh wine

June, 2009

The history of the grapevine in England and Wales is an intriguing story of enlightenment and faith in the face of adversity that reflects both the shifting sands of civilization as well as changes in climate. If you want to get a good run down visit the English Wine Producers website. 

These days there is somewhat of a renaissance, with the quality of wines being produced, particularly sparkling wine, improving immensely, more suitable and fashionable grape varieties being planted and some serious investment being made. 

Regardless it is still in world terms a fledgling industry and despite some warm summers the last two have been virtual washouts, proving that being a vigneron in the UK is pretty marginal. 

Having said that, being a vigneron is pretty marginal anywhere and it takes passionate, patient and slightly mad (perhaps completely bonkers) people to survive or give it a go. 

On a recent half term break to Wiltshire we visited Wyle Valley Vineyard, near Crockerton, who have a newly opened farm shop. Whilst there we picked up some fantastic local cheeses, nibbles and smoked trout a well as tasting a local cider, which was, in some respects, almost wine like and quite funky. They were awaiting a delivery of local beers so we couldn’t taste them. 

As far as tasting wine was concerned we were told that the last two summers had been so wet that virtually no wine had been produced, so nothing to taste from this vineyard that is nigh on 20 years old. Hence the farm shop to keep things ticking over and a stark reminder of this risky business. 

Over the years I have made the effort to try English and Welsh wines whenever possible and probably my first exposure was whilst working on the International Wine Challenge in 1992 when I had the opportunity to taste wines from Denbies and Three Choirs, which were interesting and surprisingly (for me) good.                                                                                                               

A couple of years later I was taken to a vineyard near Canterbury in Kent which like most vineyards in England was planted to Germanic grape varieties and hybrids, reflecting the wine fashions of the previous decades and the view that they were best suited to the climate of the UK. 

The wines were not bad considering but you would probably not drink them by choice, being thin and acidic. In fact I still have a few bottles I bought in the cellar and opened one recently. Although over 18 years old the wine had not deteriorated but then again it had not improved. Still not one to be drunk by choice. 

In more recent years I have had the pleasure of tasting and drinking some cracking wines from producers such as Chapel Down, Ridgeview, Nyetimber, Biddenden and Camel Down. The sparkling wines are generally every bit as good as most non-vintage Champagnes, better than many. The better examples give some vintage Champagnes a good run for their money. However many do carry Champagne prices reflecting the expensive business of growing and making high quality bubbles, but are still good value in comparison to the French fizz, if not better value.

If you are looking for a decent sparkling wine at around £15 for a party or to get you through the recession you can’t go wrong with the Chapel Down Brut. Have a scrounge around for the best price. 

As far as still wines are concerned last year I enjoyed a bottle of Chapel Down Rondo Pinot Noir. Rondo is apparently a “very complicated and curious cross from Manchurian and Austrian varieties. Intense dark red wine high natural alcohols, an affinity to oak and aging potential make this a very interesting wine for England.” according to Chapel Down’s website. 

It was, as Australians say, a pretty gutsy wine with good dark colour, plenty of black fruit flavour, nice length and quite soft. Very enjoyable. 

There are now some 380 vineyards in England and Wales and it is certainly worth visiting one near you to see what they are up to and taste their wines. Otherwise drop into your favourite wine shop and see what they have on offer from the UK. I think you will be pleasantly surprised and it is always good to support local products. 

If you have some recommendations from your own explorations I would love to here about them on the discussion board. Click here to post your thoughts. 

Here is a selection of UK wines available from our Spectator Wine Club partners whose judgment I trust:-

Tanners 

2007 Three Choirs Estate Premium, Medium Dry, England £6.95 

2006 Wroxeter Roman Vineyard Madeleine Angevine,

Medium Dry, Shropshire, England £7.95 

2006 Frome Valley Madeleine Angevine, Herefordshire, England £9.95 

2001 Monnow Valley Huxelrebe/Seyval Blanc, Welsh Table Wine £6.35 

Wheeler Cellars 

2001 Nyetimber Cuvée Classic, England £28.99