Island Hopping Delivering Wine

August, 2009

One of the real perks of working at a small island vineyard this summer has been delivering wine, as it involves a fair bit of island hopping. Not of the ultra glamorous kind, but very enjoyable nevertheless. 

Lopez is one of four main islands in the San Juan archipelago, and the ferries make stops in all of them, which allows us to schedule a full day away once a fortnight, delivering on Orcas, Shaw and San Juan Island. 

Orcas is the largest and most mountainous, with a national park and many lakes. Shaw, on the other hand, is small and largely uninhabited, having no commercial establishments whatsoever. The ferry tends to drop off foot passengers there, so a case or two of wine changes hands during the short landing time. 

San Juan Island has the most thriving commercial hub, Friday Harbor, where recession does not seem to have bitten too hard, at least if the yachts in the marina are anything to go by. It is a beautiful little port, with many restaurants and boutiques, a small brewery and a starting point for whale watching excursions. On the other end of the island, Roche Harbor is well worth a detour, boasting a sensational marina and the famous De Haro Hotel, a favourite haunt of President Theodore Roosevelt, built in 1886. 

Our wines are distributed broadly in shops and restaurants on San Juan and Orcas, and our fiercest local competitor is a somewhat larger operation, San Juan Island Vineyards, with 33 acres of land and the same two grape varieties planted, Siegerrebe and Madeleine Angevine. 

Personally, I have a soft spot for Duck Soup Inn, the cosy and romantic restaurant in the woods where Gretchen cooks stunning food. Our wines are popular there, and it is a joy to return, if only to admire the chef at work. Last time we delivered she saw us off with the most scrumptious wedges of ripe pineapple I had ever tasted. The restaurant is not far from Friday Harbor, and certainly a perfect setting for an intimate meal. 

Orcas Village is another must see, with plenty of trendy boutiques, small eateries and a smart wine shop, Country Corners Cellars. My favourite is a small cafe and bakery, Rose’s, where our wines compete against expensive labels from all over the world. We normally get our lunch from their amazing cheese selection, opting for locally produced goat cheeses and some black olive bread. 

Once the deliveries are over and we head back to the ferry landing, either on Orcas or Friday Harbor, there is a sense of exhilaration well beyond the call of duty. Principally because most of it does not feel like work, but rather an excuse to enjoy beautiful landscapes, interact with friendly people and sample delicious food. Back on the ferry, late in the afternoon, we step outside and bask in the evening sun. A long day maybe, but a very rewarding one indeed.

Andrea Lechner