Loire Valley Layover – La Couture  

September, 2009

On our way back from a far to short break in the South of France we stayed overnight in the Loire Valley. We had discussed booking accommodation many months prior to travelling but it got lost in the back burner so to speak. 

So with a few days until we were due to cross the channel I frantically tried to find somewhere half decent and not too expensive for us to briefly rest our weary bones on the way down and back. 

After a bit of teeth gnashing I found two different b&b’s who had space for us and booked them with fingers crossed that they were OK and that I would not be torn to shreds by my family. 

As it happened we never made it to the first chambre d’hote because of a delayed departure due to a sick pet dog. However on the way back we were lucky enough to be able to stay near Chinon at La Couture, owned and run by Leslie and Rufus Miles with help from various members of their family. 

From the start they were very accommodating. Even though I rang the morning of our stay to ask if we could have an evening meal they said it was fine. The setting and house are inviting and lovely, right in the heart of this World Heritage area, overlooking the water meadows of the River Indre. The Miles, who are British but have lived abroad for many years mostly in France, purchased the 18^th Century farmhouse only a few years ago with a view to renovating the house and terraced gardens. Leslie is an artist and keen gardener and a marvellous job they have done already. 

Exhausted from a long drive we were greeted by Rufus and a band of friendly dogs, shown our room and then provided with a fresh cup of tea, whilst he gave detailed advice and directions to another couple staying at La Couture. 

Our room was spacious, slightly quirky in atmosphere but not overpowering and very comfortable. A meal was served specially for our 6 year old daughter who then went to bed while we were entreated to a glass or two of local sparkling wine outside under the flowering wisteria before a delightful four course meal cooked and hosted by Leslie. Rufus was off collecting two Chinese guests from the train station in Tours, who Leslie was taking on a wine tour the next day, so we were joined by one of her daughters visiting from Amsterdam. 

Although everybody was a bit tired the meal was scrumptious with many homegrown and local ingredients combined with excellent and interesting regional wines. The Miles obviously know the region and are more than happy to help you explore its treats. 

We snuck off to bed fully sated as our hosts sat down to entertain their Chinese guests who, we were told the next morning, certainly enjoyed the home made mirabelle liqueur. 

After a lovely breakfast of cereals, croissants and preserved fruit we reluctantly rushed off northwards to our ferry in Boulogne, vowing to come back for an escorted wine tour and visit the local chateaus including the original “Sleeping Beauty” castle which is only five minutes down the road from La Couture. 

It was a far too brief glimpse of the beautiful Loire Valley but I would recommend La Couture with its hospitality and character as a great base for exploring this picturesque corner of Europe. 

La Couture

7 Route de Rigny-Usse

37420 Huismes

France

+33 689022165 or +33 247954978 or +33 679376101

rentals@lacouture.co.uk

www.lacouture.co.uk