Take me to the River  

September, 2009

Last week I decided enough was enough. I had been threatening for some time to catch up for a beer or two with a good English friend of mine, who has a business in London, and I had arrived at the conclusion that this recession was making things all a bit boring and serious. I was also getting the distinct impression that my wife wanted me out of the house. 

So I e-mailed this friend and said I am desperate for a beer but is he able to “do lunch”. Thankfully he replied in the affirmative, mentioning that they have some arrangement with the River Café and that he would invite his business partner and see if another friend of ours who buys flats and houses in London to renovate is able to join us. We were booked in at 12.15 on a Tuesday and my mate said that we couldn’t be late as the River Café does two sittings with the second at 2.15 pm. 

So easily sorted and I set out from Canterbury by train, pleased as an Australian who has moved from drought stricken South Australia to East Kent, that it was raining properly, given that our lawn was looking distinctly tired, dry and brown following an excellent but precipitatively challenged English summer in our neck of the woods. 

Having walked from Hammersmith tube station, keeping dry under an umbrella, an item I rarely if ever used in Adelaide, and inspected my friend’s place of business, which I had not seen before, three of us made our way to meet the fourth member of our party at the River Café by bicycle in the now more persistent rain, thus negating earlier efforts to stay wetless. However, it was an invigorating way to get to a restaurant and partly convinced my middle aged brain that I now deserved to feast on the delicacies that waited inside this beacon of London eating without feeling entirely guilty. 

Regardless of the rather grey and dark atmosphere outside, the River Café had a delightfully bright and airy feel and look to it. There is a bar the entire length of one side of the long room with floor to ceiling windows on the other side. At the far end is a blazing wood fired oven, complete with neatly stacked wood and behind it a huge clock which is in fact a projection onto the wall.  It leads you to anticipate a lively, fresh and engaging experience ahead, setting the mood up nicely for a decent lunch. 

Once seated at our table I was asked if I knew anything about Italian wine by one of my fellow diners and was handed the wine list. I professed to knowing a bit (meaning enough to get into trouble). We were given an amended menu as part of the arrangement with the River Café and I studied the wine list. 

We decided to start with a bottle of prosecco, the darling of the recession, and not wait for our fourth member to turn up before starting. He turned up a minute later declaring “I love the recession. Not much happening so why not go out to lunch. And you can get a table at top restaurants at short notice.” 

The wine was Prosecco 'Tapo Raso' N.V. De Faveri which had the typical freshness and clean acidity of prosecco. Fun, straightforward grapey flavours and ideal as an aperitif for lunch. 

Lively conversation ensued regarding the joys and difficulties of doing business, new opportunities, summer holidays and the usual concerns of fathers with children, particularly those of teenage or approaching teenage. Several patient visits from our waitress later we had ordered food and I was chided for some now almost empty glasses. 

Three of us were having Calamari ai ferri – chargrilled squid with fresh red chilli & rocket to start and the fourth the Carne Crudo di Manzo – finely chopped beef fillet with mache and parmesan shavings so having enjoyed examples of an Italian white wine made from the variety Fiano in the past in a Spectator Wine Club offer from the Colchester Wine Company I thought we would try another hoping it to be bursting with tropical fruit flavours like the one from the Essex wine merchants. Facing a choice of about 4 Fianos on the wine list I asked the waitress for some help who in turn called in one of the sommeliers. I asked him what he might recommend and he promptly suggested the Fiano di Avelino 2007 from Pietracupa in Sicilia. 

It proved to be ideal as a lead in to the starters, enjoyable by itself but excellent with the calamari, having enough flavour and acidity to work with the chilli and rocket. Fiano is great for those who are getting sick of Sauvignon or can’t get excited by Pinot Grigio and Soave yet can’t bring themselves to go back to Chardonnay or Burgundy. A native variety to Italy it has distinctive fruit characters that seem to blend citrus and tropical fruit and a lovely texture without being unctuous or oily.  

With starters devoured and the Fiano being rapidly despatched conversation lurched invariably to reminiscing about past activities and freedoms we enjoyed. It was apparent a red had to be selected bearing in mind three of us were having Coscia d’Agnello ai ferri – chargrilled marinated leg of lamb with salsa verde and potatoes, yellow & green zucchini 'al forno' and one was having Coda di Rospa ai ferri – chargrilled monkfish with chilli & mint sauce, Italian spinach and roasted red & yellow beetroots. 

So I thought something bright and breezy to suit the occasion and locale that would not overpower the monkfish but not shirk the issue with the lamb. The wine list at the River Café is virtually all Italian wines but the climate and geography of the country means there is plenty of variety and something to suit all tastes and most bank balances. The wine selection is diverse but not daunting. 

I was leaning towards reds form the cooler north such as a Dolcetto or Barbera and called upon the worldly advice of a sommelier. He nudged me in the direction of Dolcetto and advocated the Dolcetto d'Alba 'Vilot' 2007 Ca'Viola from Piedmont.       

It had a bright crimson colour, aromas of cherries and summer fruits, juicy fruit on the palate with chalky tannins and background acidity so as not to be sickly. It had some complexity but was not controversial and was great with the tender lamb, roasted but pleasantly crunchy zucchini, perfect potatoes and vibrant salsa verde. Here was a dish that in its simplicity you could easily do at home but had been executed by the River Café at a much higher level. A squeeze of lemon added another dimension and brought out the flavours even more. 

The Dolcetto apparently worked well with the chargrilled monkfish also. It was decided that one bottle was not enough so we tested if there was any bottle variation. 

It was also decided that given that we had all partaken in some form of physical exertion today that a dolci was in order so three servings of caramel icecream were requested and a chocolate nemesis. 

To help establish what to drink with dessert and coffee I again solicited help from the sommelier who reckoned a half bottle of the 'Solalto' Le Pupille 2005 Solalto was the go. 

I must confess I ordered the caramel ice cream because I thought it would be quite simple and reasonably refreshing as well as being not too filling so I wasn’t concentrating that much when I had my first mouthful. But wow it stopped me in my tracks. It had great depth and length of flavour with a creaminess balanced by a slightly tart finish. 

The ‘Solato’ 2005 had honey and dried apricot characters and excellent acidity to offset the sweetness and a texture that was no too cloying. Together the caramel ice cream and a glass of the sweet wine made a delicious pudding whose simplicity belied a myriad of flavours and textures all pleasantly seeking attention. Add to that a well made cup of coffee and we were well sated. 

Overall our visit to the River Café was a joy with an appealing ambience, friendly, efficient and patient staff and importantly food made from fresh seasonal produce that is unfussy, flavoursome and yet cleverly done. 

Additionally it certainly proved to me that at a decent restaurant you are essentially paying for a sommelier and it would be negligent not to seek their advice. It can greatly enhance your experience and enjoyment as well as shifting the responsibility of choosing wine. 

Back to the office on our bikes along the Thames after a morale boosting, recession busting lunch. Some things you just have to do even if it is not financially prudent.
 

The River Café
Thames Wharf,
Rainville Road,
London W6 9HA 

Tel: 020 7386 4200 

www.rivercafe.co.uk 

info@rivercafe.co.uk 

The River Café is located at Thames Wharf Studios on the River Thames about one mile south of Hammersmith Broadway in West London.