What happens when a sommelier opens his own restaurant?

November, 2009

After receiving excellent professional advice from a sommelier at River Café recently I thought it would be interesting to pick the brains of a top sommelier, to find out how he sees the role of sommelier and what he likes drinking. A couple of people in the know suggested I go and see Thierry Tomasin at his own restaurant.   

Previously Head Sommelier at Le Gavroche, General Manager at Aubergine and Chairman of the Association of Sommeliers, Thierry Tomasin opened Angelus in Lancaster Gate two years ago. 

The restaurant is tucked away in Bathurst Street in Bayswater not far from the Lancaster Gate tube station. There is a slight villagey feel about the street with its mixed shops and this is further enhanced by the sounds of horses’ hoofs on cobblestones coming from the Hyde Park stables in the mews next door. Whilst waiting for Thierry in Angelus’ lounge area I spot through the window various youngsters hopping onto ponies and horses preparing to go for a ride around nearby Hyde Park. 

Thierry enters the room with a smile which evaporates into mock concern when he spies the water I am drinking. “Are you sick?” Mindful of lunch with a colleague ahead I had eschewed coffee or alcohol when asked. It became quickly apparent with Thierry you do not dwell on things too long and he was soon telling me all about his still youthful venture with great verve and passion. 

He says he has purposely steered away from the typical fine dining experience. 

“I wanted something less formal, with no minimum charge, open 7 days a week from 11 am – 11pm, a restaurant and brasserie with no restrictions. Great French food and a fantastic wine list. You can come and have a cup of coffee, a light lunch, glass of wine, three course meal or whatever takes your fancy.” 

“I want people to relax and feel at home with service that is attentive but not intrusive. These days people are not doing long business lunches so much but dropping in or meeting people after 4pm to discuss business or socialise with a glass of wine and not worry about going back to the office.” 

Thierry is a larger than life character who spent 12 years at Le Gavroche as Chief Sommelier and 5 years at Aubergine as General Manager. He arrived in the UK in 1991 to work for a year and has ended up staying. Originally from Gascony in the south west of France his early career seems typically French, training as a chef and playing rugby professionally. 

Formerly the Archery Tavern, Thierry named his restaurant Angelus after a bell, once his grandfather’s which was passed onto him via his father. “I grew up near Toulouse and as a young boy playing out in the fields I remember hearing the bell which was rung to call my brothers and I in for lunch or supper. It was the sound of my mother beckoning us for a hearty meal, the sound of sanctuary. It meant we could forget about the world and enjoy good food.” 

“That is the feeling I have tried to create here in Angelus. A welcoming atmosphere.” The original bell sits on a mantelpiece. On another table is a recent award from the Evening Standard for service, welcome and warmth which Thierry is very proud of, particularly for his staff. 

“We concentrate on British produce where possible because it is so good and fresh. I have a Scottish chef Martin Nisbet who has worked with Anton Endelmann at the Savoy and at Anton’s restaurant.”   

The Angelus wine cellar is obviously pivotal and Thierry says he is slowly building it up to where he wants it to be, admitting he finds it hard to show restraint. The cellar already has £350,000 worth of wine and he has spent £20,000 with one grower alone. However he believes he puts a reasonable mark up on the wines as he would rather see people in Angelus enjoying the wines and exploring its depth than have a vinous museum and no turnover. “Our mark up is very fair. Not the cheapest but not ridiculous.”    

“With the economic difficulties I am finding it is a good time to buy wine with many excellent private cellars on offer or importers offering attractive deals. I am looking to buy more French wine, wines from the New World and looking at en-primeur opportunities” 

Thierry finds the British very open minded about wine and prepared to experiment compared to say the  Bordelaise who find it hard to believe that good wine is made anywhere else. British customers are willing to take advice from sommeliers. 

Thierry first discovered the joys and beauty of wine in the UK with the help of wine merchants such as Roy Richards and Mark Walford showing him the likes of old vintages of Lafitte and Chateau d’Yquem. 

“In France most wine is drunk quite young but here in the UK I was lucky enough to taste and drink wines, such as mature Burgundies, that had been beautifully cellared for 30 – 40 years.” 

“Some of my favourite wine experiences came after the first Gulf War during the Internet boom, tasting some extraordinary wines like Lafitte 1945 and 1921 d’Yquem. My bad experiences with wine have come when there has been a lack of mutual respect between the sommelier and the customer, the wrong choices are made and the wine selected is not suitable. It reflects badly on all concerned.” 

What are Thierry’s thoughts on corks versus screw cap seals on wines? 

“I have changed my mind. I was originally against screw caps. The opening of a wine bottle is like courting a woman with all the ceremony, the looks, the why and where. On the other hand there is nothing worse than corked wine so if screw caps or glass stoppers help prevent corked wine they are good.” 

“Wine is like a human being because it evolves and changes and at one point it peaks. However it does not suddenly crash but tapers off. It is about finding the right time to drink it, which can depend upon the person.”     

Thierry thinks in general the quality of wine has improved and wines are getting better. 

“Up until the late 1960’s early 1970s there were massive wines made with strong tannin requiring time to age, now the wines are more forward and can be enjoyed younger. Wine is a serious business. These days we are looking for subtlety in wines like our food. Not in your face.” 

“Producers need to stop being chemists and let the earth talk and express itself through the wine, otherwise the chain will break.”  

“Matching wine with food is not that important and depends upon personal taste, as long as the wine does not clash with the food. Often there is not a right and a wrong answer. Like driving to Brighton. A Rolls Royce or a Ford Fiesta will both get you there but they are quite different cars and different experiences.” 

I asked Thierry with such a substantial wine cellar and the brasserie opening hours does he have wines by the glass. He declares strongly that he is against serving wines by the glass believing that the quality of the wine when served cannot be guaranteed. It is not fair on the customer or the producer. He prefers to offer half bottles and is actively looking to expand the amount of half bottles on the list. They are sometimes difficult to find but sell really well.  It is obvious this is something he feels strongly about. 

However he does serve a white and a red wine by the glass for those customers only requiring a glass but the turnover is such that wine is always fresh. 

“The role of the sommelier is partly to be the ambassador for the winemaker. To connect the customer with the producer. To assess what would ensure the customer has an enjoyable experience and make suggestions. The customer should make use of the sommelier because after all they know the wines, understand the food and you are paying for the service anyway.” 

Thierry believes New World wines are also improving all the time. Recently he has particularly enjoyed Bodega Noemia 2006, a Malbec from Patagonia in Argentina. “It is not cheap but has finesse and class. It is round and mellow like a beautiful lady.” 

He also loves Burgundy and Pinot Noir. His wife is from Gevrey-Chambertin, and they nearly bought an old mill there recently. He has a fondness for New Zealand Pinot Noirs but says “Pinot Noir is a harsh mistress.” 

Once I had finished chatting with Thierry I adjourned to the inviting dining room with its designer art deco features, dark wood, white table cloths and chandeliers. I had arranged to meet a friend of mine David Round MW for lunch to experience the Angelus first hand and to test the wine list. 

We were presented a glass each of Comte Audoin de Dampierre, Grande Cuvée NV from Chenay, a lovely vibrant champagne with citrus, vanilla, honey and a hint of green apples to get the taste buds into action. 

The menu has a theme of Scottish produce running through it with a definite French style to the dishes. In deference to Thierry’s strong views I decided we should explore the half bottle selection. 

We select a 2007 Pouilly Fumé from Château Favray which has delicious grassy and passionfruit flavours, exquisite mineral texture and a bone dry finish. A perfect foil to having too many New Zealand Sauvignons. 

Next we had a half bottle of 2004 Chambolle Musigny, “Clos du Village” from Domaine Antonin Guyon to go with a duck dish and roast monkfish. David tells me Chambolle Musigny is a very small appellation in Burgundy capable of extremely high quality wines. This example has pronounced red fruit aromas with savoury and earthy tones. Velvety texture, fine tannins and layered complexity of cherry and strawberry followed by nuances of gaminess and spice. An absolute delight that complemented both dishes. 

Going for broke we ordered dessert and were recommended a glass of Maury,“Solera” 1928 Cask 918 Les Vignerons de Maury which I gather is made by a co-op in the Languedoc Roussillon from fortified Grenache using a solera system with some of the wine dating back to 1928. As a great fan of Australian Rutherglen Muscat and with family connections to the region I was intrigued to taste this French “cousin” which had been unearthed by Roy Richards of Richards Walford around 2004. 

And intriguing it is. Molasses, dried fruit, rich, comforting, savoury and spicy Grenache aromas and flavours. A joyous mouthful. If you get a chance to taste this wine grab it. For more background visit this article by Jancis Robinson. 

A thoroughly enjoyable lunch with well made flavoursome food that emphasised the fresh produce and featured some excellent combinations. But I have to say it was the wines that grabbed my attention. Angelus is a worthy destination for anyone with an interest in wine. You will benefit from exploring Thierry’s selections and there is something for most budgets and tastes. At Angelus you can confidently “trade up” to a more highly priced wine than you might ordinarily order confident in the knowledge you will be rewarded. 

A lively discussion on the wine from the engaging Thierry Tomasin is an added bonus.

Angelus
4 Bathurst Street,
London W2 2SD

Tel: 020 7402 0083

E-mail: info@angelusrestaurant.co.uk

www.angelusrestaurant.co.uk