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Sunday 27 May 2012

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Simon Hoggart, 07 September 2011

As the price of wine goes on rising, and what with the low value of sterling, the cost of fuel and the increase in duty, we have to find treasures where we can. Jason Yapp of Yapp Brothers had an excellent idea for this new offer: super substitutes. These are wines made from the same grapes as the most famous names in France. It’s just that they don’t have the cachet provided by the appellation. All four wines are delicious, all are as good as some sold under fancier labels, and in a couple of cases would, grown a few miles away, be hailed as classics. And would cost vastly more. (Especially as Jason is offering a 5 per cent deduction on list price, together with free delivery, which is worth a small fortune these days.)

First is a 2010 Viognier from the Coteaux de l’Ardèche. It’s made by the local co-op, the Vignerons Ardéchois, and is standing in for nearby Condrieu. If you like the zesty, flowery style of Viognier, you’ll like this very much — and it costs a fraction of what you’d pay for a Condrieu: £8.75.

Sancerre is also being steadily priced out of most people’s range, but these days you can get a first-rate New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc for two thirds the price. Or if you want that Loire finesse and steeliness, you can buy Quincy, which is just as good as most Sancerres, and better than many. The 2010 from Jérôme de la Chaise costs £11.35.   

Standing in for Pomerol we have the Château d’Abzac 2009 which is made from the same predominantly Merlot blend — with some Cabernet Sauvignon — and has that soft ripeness we associate with Pomerol. It isn’t Pétrus (which would cost 350 times as much) but it is a very nice claret indeed, and better than some Pomerols at two or three times the price. Which is £9.95.

Finally, a wine I implore you to buy: the 2008 Château Valcombe from the Côtes du Ventoux near Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is absolutely luscious — made from the same blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault that goes into many C-de-P wines and much, much better than many of those. It may not have such a posh monicker, but by golly, it tries harder. At £9.95, a snip.

There is a sample case with three of each wine, and delivery is free.

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