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Sunday 27 May 2012

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Simon Hoggart, 06 October 2011

This offer, from the estimable Adnams of Southwold, Suffolk, could be called hidden treasures. You may well not have heard of the wines here, but each is wonderful in a distinct way. This is a fine opportunity to buy first-rate bottles for a very reasonable amount. They’re great for glugging, but I would be pleased and proud to serve them to guests. Pour the reds into a decanter, and they’ll imagine you have spent a fortune. You could put the whites into decanters too, and it would heighten the flavour just as much, but the result does look a little like a hospital sample.

This offer, from the estimable Adnams of Southwold, Suffolk, could be called hidden treasures. You may well not have heard of the wines here, but each is wonderful in a distinct way. This is a fine opportunity to buy first-rate bottles for a very reasonable amount. They’re great for glugging, but I would be pleased and proud to serve them to guests. Pour the reds into a decanter, and they’ll imagine you have spent a fortune. You could put the whites into decanters too, and it would heighten the flavour just as much, but the result does look a little like a hospital sample.

But the taste could not be more different. Take the gorgeous La Tour du Prélat 2009 (1), which is made for Adnams in the Rhône region, the vin de pays Portes de Méditerranée. This is a silky blend of Marsanne and Viognier, one giving a mouth-satisfying fullness, the other an elegant perfume. At just £6.99, it is truly delicious.

Now something else just as delicious, and a curiousity. The Pfaffenheim co-op is in southern Alsace, near to all those stupendously beautiful villages. Unlike some co-ops I could name, it has a reputation for consistent value and quality. With this Gentil de Pfaff 2009 (2) it has gone back to the days when Alsace wines were a blend of the several grapes in the area — Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Sylvaner and of course Gewurtztraminer. The result is richly flavoured but dry, perfect as an aperitif or with, say, oriental food. At £9.99 it’s terrific value.

Now the reds. Portuguese wines were in the doldrums for years — I blame Mateus Rosé — but people are beginning to discover their gorgeous complexity. Imagine a vintage port, with all the dark flavour, but lighter and, obviously, less alcoholic. This 2009 .com Tiago Cabaço from Alentejo (3) is smooth, velvety, and comes in at a mere £7.50.

As does Etienne Gonnet’s Ventoux 2009 (4) from an appellation that’s part of the Rhône. If you bought a Côtes du Rhône Villages for 50 per cent more, you’d still feel you were getting good value. My notes record that it has ‘oomph’. A really lovely wine.

The sample case would be an excellent way to try these treasures, and I recommend it heartily. Delivery, as ever, is free.

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