The latest Burgundy harvest was very small, not much more than half normal quantities. What’s more, the Far Eastern market has woken up to the charms of this fabled area, and as claret prices fall in Shanghai and Hong Kong, Burgundy rises.
Which is why it was such an apt idea for Robert Boutflower, of the estimable Tanners in Shrewsbury, to offer us a selection of fine Burgundies at discounted prices. These are truly excellent wines, well worth laying down — especially the reds. The whites you should drink within a year or so. (They’re also perfect when people ask for ‘anything but Chardonnay’. When they have clucked with pleasure at these two, you can tell them that Chardonnay is exactly what they are.)
The first is the 2007 Saint-Romain, from just behind Auxey-Duresses (1). It’s sold in many of the leading Michelin-starred restaurants in France, though for old times’ sake they keep a reasonable amount back for Tanners customers. It has a light freshness, coupled with the evanescent scent which Burgundy lovers like so much. Reduced by £1.65 a bottle to £18.95. Next is the Santenay 2008 Clos de la Comme Dessus (2). Santenay is at the southern end of the Côte de Beaune, and it makes a gorgeously rich and deep wine, slightly earthier than most but immediately identifiable as Burgundy – it couldn’t come from anywhere else. A £1.20 reduction brings it down to £19.50.
Now the reds. I loved Rully’s Les Chaponnières 2009 (3) made by Paul Jacqueson and increasingly by his daughter Marie. It is soft, silky and packed with fruit — ‘plumptious’ is the (wholly approving) word I borrowed from Ken Dodd. A smashing drop, reduced by £1.45 to £18.35.
And finally, a huge treat. Not that long ago, I was served a 1926 Volnay, and while it showed its age, it was still very pleasant drinking. I don’t propose that you keep yours such a long time, but it will go on being delicious for years. This 2009 from the Maison Roche de Bellene (4) is made by the celebrated Nicolas Potel and it has a wonderful fullness, grace and complexity. A superb wine, reduced by £1.95 to £22.75.
All wines come in cases of six, and that is the only minimum order. Delivery as ever is free, and there is a 12-bottle sample case.
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