Simon Hoggart

This month we return to Yapp Brothers of Mere, Wiltshire, the specialist ­merchants who ferret...  

This month we return to Yapp Brothers of Mere, Wiltshire, the specialist ­merchants who ferret out wines from corners of France — some obscure, some ­fairly well known, but all chosen personally by Jason Yapp and his step-brother, Tom Ashworth. Every year they risk the suspension on their cars by bumping down pot-holed roads to meet ancient, gap-toothed vignerons whose forebears have been working in the same fields, growing the same grapes, since the Revolution. Or more often, meeting delightful young winemakers who are as up to date with new techniques as anyone in California or Australia. The result is a collection of delicious wines which you may not have heard of, but could easily become favourites. All are reduced from the list price.

For years I have been banging on about the tremendous value to be found in southern France, from where four of our wines come this month. The first two are a red and a white from Château Millet, down in Gascony, hard up against the Pyrenees. They are made by the Dèche family who have been growing vines there for five generations. Their white (1) is the local brew of Colombard and Ugni Blanc (the grape that goes into Armagnac, which the family also used to make until the bottom dropped out of the market).

It is zippy and fresh, with a hint of grapefruit. It’s a wine that tells you that spring is on its way. Perfect as an aperitif in the garden, or with fish, chicken, salad, or almost anything really. It’s £7.75.

The red (4) is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, the light, slightly slatey grape which is common in the Loire, and pops up in many Bordeaux blends. The result is a wine that is bursting with fruity ­flavours, yet is soft and velvety too. This is a red wine that needs drinking early, so it’s just perfect for that first outdoor meal you’re going to enjoy very soon. Also £7.75.

Now a couple of Loire wines. Château de Ligre 2010 (2) is a Chenin Blanc made by the Ferrand family. Chinon and Vouvray are the great wines from this grape made in this neck of the woods, and I personally am a huge fan. As was Rabelais, who also lived near here, though I doubt that the wine he drank was a patch on this. It’s smooth, glossy, aromatic, and very elegant indeed, and is only £11.20.

Now we are privileged to offer a stunning wine, a Menetou-Salon made in the village of the same name. This was the home of Jacques Coeur, who was minister of finance for Charles XII, and he built a magnificent chateau here. But, again, thanks to ­technological advances, the wine he drank would be greatly inferior to the delicious drop made by Patricia and Oliver Teiller. They make only 50,000 bottles a year of their Château Teiller (3) and sell half of that to visitors at the door. Menetou-Salon is the much smaller appellation next door to Sancerre, and I think it makes wines just that bit juicier, richer and fruitier — for a pound or so less. A gorgeous, silky wine for a very reasonable £12.20.

Our last two reds are from southern France. I really liked the Coteaux de la Cèze, Domaine Maby 2009 (5), made just a short distance from the lovely old town of Orange. It’s a real Rhone blend of Cinsault and Syrah, and it’s got fruit together with a sort of mineral subtlety which makes it even more satisfying. Excellent value at £8.

Finally one of my favourite wines from the Languedoc, a Pic St Loup. This is a small appellation, near Montpelier, but it has come on fast of late. The wines — in this case, Syrah and Grenache — combine body, earthiness, ripe blackcurrant fruits and just a hint of perfume. The Bruguière family have actually been making wine here since the Revolution and their L’Arbouse 2009 (6) shows all that experience. It’s £10.65.

Delivery, as ever, is free, and there is a sample case containing two of each wine.