Simon Hoggart

The luscious Château Bauduc 2009 tastes nice. (I have always wanted to write that, rather...  

Last month we held a very pleasant tasting event in the Spectator office garden, which is not the size of Kew, but when the weather is fine makes a delightfully agreeable venue for such an event. The wines were from FromVineyardsDirect, who are making the present offer, and they seemed to go down very well with the visitors. Spectator subscribers are always ­welcome at these bashes, and you can find out what is going on through the website.

FVD have been going for only a short while, and are doing exceedingly well. This is partly because they go direct to the growers, and cut out middlemen; also it’s because they don’t need to buy complete ranges of particular wines. They can zoom in on one vintage or vineyard simply because they like what’s in that bottle. The result is excellent wines at good prices. Some of these cost more than usual, but I’ve noticed that with FVD, readers tend to buy wines from the upper ranges, because they are superb value.

First there is the luscious Château Bauduc 2009 (1) of which they have sold more in the past three months than all white Bordeaux in the previous three years. It is the house white in all Gordon Ramsay’s three-star restaurants. I’m not surprised. It tastes nice. (I have always wanted to write that, rather than banging on about nuances of elderberry and top notes of nutmeg.) One reason may be that it contains a little more Sémillon in the mix with Sauvignon Blanc, which gives it a richer, fleshier flavour. A very sophisticated wine at an excellent £8.95.

Soave is one of those Italian wines that can bring dread to anyone scanning a leatherbound menu. The word actually means ‘suave’ and may refer to the waiter, somehow subservient and condescending at the same time. Most Soave is churned out by co-ops, but not this 2010 Classico (2), made by Sergio and Graziano Prà, who have their name on the bottle. It is gorgeous, silky, layered with flavours, and wonderful drinking for £10.95.

Now our most expensive white, and it is truly remarkable. From the very centre of the Meursault appellation, this Clos des ­Tessons 2009 (3) is already delicious, but it will continue to improve for another three years. Those who love white Burgundy will recognise the savour of honey, hazelnuts and truffles. And that extra, evanescent magical something that hits a different part of the senses from lesser, mortal wines. Even at £26.95 a bottle it is still a fiver or so cheaper than is frequently ­demanded for it.

We haven’t offered a red Rhône for a while, largely because I’ve been waiting for a really good one to come along. And here it is. The Domaine les Grands Bois Les Trois Soeurs Côtes du Rhône 2010 (4) is deeply flavoured and intense. We’re not normally allowed to quote Robert Parker, but everyone does when he rates a wine highly, and he gives this one 90 points. £8.95.

Now two clarets. The first is Château Ducluzeau 2000 (5) from Listrac-Médoc, and it’s made by the same team as the famous Château Ducru Beaucaillou. As you know, a really fine claret has leather, cedar and cigars (oh, and fruit too), like the library of a gentlemen’s club. This is gloriously smooth and very satisfying. £16.75.

Our priciest red is superlative. The ­Château La Commanderie de Mazeyres 2001 (6) is a Pomerol of the very highest quality. It has maturity, profundity, and all the rounded flavours of a magnificent claret at its peak. The vineyard has since been incorporated into Château Fayat, and the name exists no more. For lovers of red Bordeaux, this is a joy. And even at £26.95 it is good value because (a) Tesco wants £120 more per dozen and (b) you will want to sip it so ­slowly it will last you much longer.

Delivery is free, and there is a sample case containing two bottles of each.