Simon Hoggart

Fashions in wine change slowly, but change they do, driven by advances in technology and,...  

Fashions in wine change slowly, but change they do, driven by advances in technology and, most of all, by changes in price. Which is why Australia’s wine-makers are in trouble. The Oz dollar is very strong at the moment, the pound is weak, so sales in their biggest export market — us — are way down. And the Chileans, Argentinians, South Africans and even the French are eager to fill the gap. If they have any sense, they will try to keep prices low as long as possible, even at the expense of profits, and wait till the currencies straighten out again. Of course it’s still hard on the Europeans. The euro now hovers between 86 and 88p, instead of the original 67p, where God intended it to be. After a year or so in which many French vignerons tried to clamp down on prices, and merchants sold stock bought earlier, prices are now on the rise. And with the Chancellor showing no sign of making life easier for wine drinkers, we are going to have to get used to paying more. Maybe we should buy less wine, but of better quality, so increasing our pleasure while preserving our livers.

To help us, Private Cellar, the fine wine merchant based in a village just north-east of Cambridge, have come up with some excellent wines which, while far from being dirt cheap, are very good value and very satisfying. If you buy two cases there’s a discount of £10 and for three cases or more, £15.

They’re offering two wines from the Domaine Laguille in Gascony, one of the most interesting up-and-coming areas in southern France. Their blend of Colombard and the local grape, Ugni Blanc 2010 (1) is sprightly, packed with flavour, and perfect as an apéritif or with food. The Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend of 2009 (5) is ripe and fruity, like a naughty uncle. Both cost £7.35 and are a good way of beefing up your order to qualify for the discount.

Now the main offer, and it kicks off with a really excellent chardonnay from the Pays d’Oc, a 2010 from Arnaud de Villeneuve (2) at £7.90. This is delightfully crisp and dry, and as full of flavour as many burgundies at a substantially higher price. I enjoyed two glasses in a London club the other day, and could have easily gone on glugging it all night.

Pinot Grigio is one of those grapes associated with the kind of Italian restaurant — and the kind of customer — that really doesn’t have much of a clue about wine, or even food. You need a bottle with the maker’s name on it: this shows they haven’t just tossed their grapes into hoppers to be blended with any old rubbish. The Gregoris 2010 from Antonio Fattori (3) is made in the Veneto, and it has blossom scents, almonds, grapefruit and real dignity. A lovely wine, for eating or sharpening the appetite, £9.50.

South Africa is another beneficiary of the increase in Australian prices. The Terroir Selection Chenin Blanc 2010 (4) from Springfontein is quite luscious with flavours of lychees and vanilla and nectarines. It is made from the same grape as Vouvray, and if you found this on the Loire at a mere £14 you would buy a very great deal. Ripe, rounded, pleasing in every way.

Now the reds. The Côtes de Thongue is another small area making a name for itself and this 2009 Merlot/Cabernet blend from the Domaine de Bertier (6) is very much like a good St Emilion or Pomerol at a far lower price. And at £7.40, how can you go wrong?

Which brings us to Malbec. The Argentinians have taken the Auxerrois grape under its other name and sent it round the world. In Cahors, its spiritual home, the French have even had to put the word Malbec — in the teeth of bureaucratic opposition — on their labels. This 2009 Ique from the excellent Bodega Foster (7) is smooth, with hints of chocolate and liquorice. Yum. And only £8.95.

Finally a true claret from St Emilion. This Château Cèdre d’Arthus 2007 (8) is the second wine of the Grand Cru Classé Fleur d’Arthus estate, and a good example of these increasingly popular cadet wines. It is old enough to have real maturity, yet retains freshness — a lovely wine all round, perfect for true claret lovers at £12.50.

There is a sample case of the six pricier wines. Delivery, as ever, is free and don’t forget to deduct £10 from your order of two cases or £15 if you order three cases or more.