Simon Hoggart

November

Champagne Krug has an extraordinary cachet. The name of course, the bottle with its swan-like neck, and most of all the taste, which is bone dry, yet full, rich and even bountiful. The wine is aged in small oak casks, which adds to the roundness, and is matured on its lees, which provide added complexity. It has a marvellous, evocative perfume, which means that you could pretty much get high just sniffing the stuff in a glass. It is also very expensive.

Which may be why Jeffrey Archer used to serve it at his celebrated champagne and shepherd’s pie parties. For a few years I was invited to those when covering the Tory party conference. Jeffrey used to glide about the party, flitting from newspaper editor to famous politician asking, ‘More Krug?’ This is, some sniffy people told me, not done; you say simply ‘More champagne?’, or, if you have even more class, just ‘More wine?’ Jeffrey does have his faults, but a lack of generosity is not one.

Krug is now owned by the giant LVMH, but the wine is still made by the family who founded the business in Reims nearly 170 years ago. They rely on grapes furnished by small growers with whom they have dealt for generations, so guaranteeing consistent quality. We are offering four different bottles. One is discounted; the others are at full price for the excellent reason that quantities are very small, and the Wine Company, which is making this offer, knows perfectly well that they will sell out anyway.

The Grand Cuvée (6) is non-vintage, or actually mixed vintage from wines that may be up to ten years old. It has tremendous elegance, and is reduced by £10 a bottle to £109. It’s also available in magnum at £324 (7), but you’ll need to move fast; there are only 15 available. The rosé (8) was made by Olivier and Henri Krug in defiance of their father (they waited till it was made, then made him taste it blind. He was, it is said, horrified that another maker had stolen a march on Krug with such a delectable wine, then delighted to discover that it was their own). This costs £188, a reflection of the fact that very little is made; TWC have just 30 bottles to sell. Fin-ally, there is the superlative Krug ’98 (9), a wondrous wine packed with luscious flavours and with tremendous depth. It is fabulous now, but will go on improving for years. There are just 60 bottles available. I won’t say it’s a snip at £157, but it will provide you with an unparalleled drinking experience.

From the sublime to the excellent. We also have four more moderately priced wines to help you through the festive season. The first is a little-known Sauvignon Blanc from a new Loire appellation, the Côteaux du Giennois. This 2010 is from the Domaine de Villargeau (1) and it is deliciously crisp, like a Sancerre, but also round and fruity, like a New Zealand Sauvignon. A terrific food wine. Reduced by £14 a case to £9.58, around £3 less than a Sancerre of similar quality.

As is the white Burgundy 2010 from Cave de Viré (2). Generic burgundies can be a touch disappointing, but this has a fatness, juiciness and generosity which I thought very appealing. You could enjoy it as an aperitif, but it would also go perfectly with the smoked salmon or even the turkey. Reduced by £20 a case to £8.25 a bottle.

With a goose, or a rib of beef, you might prefer a red, and I really liked the 2008 Château Montaiguillon from Montagne St-Emilion (3). It has the leathery, cedary notes of a good claret, with an approachable softness provided by all the Merlot. Reduced by just over £21 a case.

Finally the 2009 red Burgundy from the Dme Pauget (4) has all the delicious, evanescent scent you look for in a French Pinot Noir. Again, delicious as a sharpener or with the meal. A great way to lift those Boxing Day leftovers. Reduced by £20 a case.

Delivery is free if ordering one case or more, and there is a mixed case containing three each of the first four wines.