When Marks & Spencer first began using that treacly voice to advertise food on television, it was a signal to the mass market that ‘just’ any old food was no longer acceptable fare with which to impress friends.
Indeed, what we eat nowadays is becoming as much an indication of our social status as how we dress. How often are we told that a bespoke suit is worth any number of off-the-peg imitations? Similarly, doing away with that supermarket own-label platter of assorted cheeses and presenting a single splendid, oozing wedge of reassuringly stinking organic Brie is the sartorial equivalent of sporting a single Mikimoto cultured pearl rather than a rope of fakes.
Not that long ago, some crackers smeared with p