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Silk Road scenes: The land of opportunity

The London-Tashkent flight overflows with excited trilingual students arguing over seats, food and commodity prices. One brings a western shoe brand to Central Asia; another will take a chance on the fledgling tourism industry. These ambitions are being brought home – to Uzbekistan: a nation rapidly transforming into a land of opportunity.

What is your stereotype of Uzbekistan? The formidable towers of Samarkand on the mystical Silk Road? A Soviet republic whose water was drained away in agricultural experiments? Or maybe a reclusive strong-armed former government who burned bridges and built walls?

This country has been blowing away these stereotypes since 2016. A raft of presidential reforms have ushered in new freedoms of business, travel and expression.

‘Today, this double land-locked nation of 36 million is shattering the constraints of its isolationism to greet the modern world.’

Today, this double land-locked nation of 36 million is shattering the constraints of its isolationism to greet the modern world.

New freedoms provide creative outlets. Bars and cafes are opening, and theatres are reviving ancient Uzbek tales. A fledgling techno festival by the Aral Sea is beset by sandstorms but supported by enthusiasm.
Countless new schools and universities with British names reflect a thirst for knowledge and advancement.

Although journalism has not yet reached maturity – neither in quality nor in ethics – there is a beauty in the brawls of bloggers that rage at each other online. Uzbek society may soon value objectivity and demand enough for it to foster genuine media independence.

And as some (re)connect with their Islamic roots, in line with a national tradition of tolerance, conservative families and scantily-clad teenagers can stand together to watch a lightshow in a modern Tashkent park. 

New wealth often has gilded tastes. People are more obsessed with Instagram than reality (fortunately, photographers are cheap). Developments imitate Rome or London. They are juxtaposed with traditional blue domes, markets of beautifully-stacked fruits and enormous vats of plov – the indulgently calorific national dish.

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