Lord Sugar’s castle
Alan Sugar’s Turkish restaurant, Sheesh, is in Chigwell, a land of soft lawns, hard money and fairies who count it.…
Fights of the feminists
When it comes to sheer nastiness in public debate, women are now more than equal to men
Cooking witches
The Witchery is almost a themed restaurant; it is a weeping medieval tenement, just below Edinburgh Castle, which looks like…
Quarter-pounders with guilt
The McDonald’s in the Olympic Park has 1,500 seats and is the biggest McDonald’s on earth. Let us ignore the…
A study in pink
Brasserie Zédel is the pinkest restaurant I have ever seen. It is pig pink, Barbie pink, icing-sugar pink and tongue…
Eating the brand
I thought I would hate Bulgari. (At least they have stopped calling it Bvlgari). Ah, you might say, surely Bulgari,…
Russian dolls
Mari Vanna is in Knightsbridge, near those pale loitering houses that would be ripped up if only their owners could…
Sexy time
Nick Clegg and sex. What doesn’t the dude know about it — he told Piers Morgan he had slept with…
Away with the pixies
Dabbous is the place where stoned pixies would dine if they were into food. I have a fever and think…
Carry on screaming
The Bread Street Kitchen is a big restaurant near the Mansion House, brought to you by Gordon Ramsay’s big rage;…
Food: Jubilee tea
Fortnum & Mason is a major attraction at the UK heritage theme park, the equivalent of the gorilla at London…
Handshake fatigue
On the campaign trail with London’s would-be mayors
Food: Full Marx
Quo Vadis is the restaurant in the house where Marx wrote Das Kapital, and today it is full of tulips.…
Food: Flesh and blood
Poor Hawksmoor. So obviously the genius of English Baroque, and yet he always comes last in the histories, behind flashy…
Food: Luxury comedy
Sometimes I think luxury is a joke played on the rich by the not-so rich. In my mind, people on…
Food: Dinner drama
Novikov is an immense two-storey restaurant in deepest Mayfair. It serves Asian on the ground floor and Italian in the…
Food: Conference call
The Grand Hotel, Brighton, is the most beautiful hotel in England. It is bright and shiny like Simon Cowell’s teeth,…
Food: Movie dinners
The Odeon cinema in Whiteleys, Bayswater, has refurbished; it now has eight ‘Lounges’ where you can watch a film and…
Food: Smart casual
Reviewing the Delaunay is like reviewing Nelson Mandela. You cannot be rude. This restaurant, a new sister for the Wolseley,…
Food: Eating like a Miliband
I came to the Gay Hussar for gags about the Labour party; to find some wreckage of its glory days.…
A dream of sorts
Into Disney World, where the mouse and the princess rule
Food: I have been here before
34 is the new restaurant from Richard Caring, the ‘Lex Luthor of Mayfair’, who owns The Ivy, Le Caprice and…
Food: Eat me! I’m French!
I am very fond of the Connaught Hotel in Mayfair, because I once saw Mr and Mrs Bibi Netanyahu breakfasting…
Food: Raiding the fridge
The new hotel W looms like a giant fridge over Leicester Square. They demolished the poor old Swiss Centre to…
Waiting for Dr Nasty
David Starkey is no longer quite as eager to show off his bitchy side, but he can be persuaded …
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