Notes on…

Forman smokes wild salmon, too — for a price

Why smoked salmon doesn't taste anything like it should

16 December 2017 9:00 am

I’m just about old enough to remember when smoked salmon was a rare treat. Then, around 1986 or 1987, suddenly…

The Watford Locks on the Grand Union Canal

The truth about The Watford Gap

9 December 2017 9:00 am

In a shallow dip between two unremarkable Northamptonshire hills you will find a road, a motorway, a railway and a…

Improbable: a Sri Lanka grey hornbill

Forget temples and tea – Sri Lanka is all about its birds 

2 December 2017 9:00 am

Standing in sweaty silence for an hour on a precipitous sliver of muddy footpath above a waterfall may not be…

The best kind of poem: England on two wheels

The English countryside on two wheels is like the best kind of poem

25 November 2017 9:00 am

No seat belts. No airbags. Just air, and coming at you as fast as you like. Motorcycling shouldn’t be allowed,…

Much fun: Usain Bolt and Wenlock the mascot

Which town directly inspired the revival of the Olympics? Clue: it's not in Greece

18 November 2017 9:00 am

There were two mascots for the 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games. One was called Mandeville, obviously because Stoke Mandeville’s games…

Irish chic: the Duchess of Cornwall with Dubarrys

Why does the Duchess of Cambridge wear French wellies when British is best?

11 November 2017 9:00 am

‘Foot – foot – foot – foot – sloggin’ over Africa — / (Boots – boots – boots – boots –…

Modigliani’s ‘Les deux filles’

Dinner at Modigliani’s

4 November 2017 9:00 am

When you arrive for dinner and your host is massaging a purple cauliflower, you know you’re in for an interesting…

Notes on Lewes

28 October 2017 9:00 am

Autumn is upon us, and the streets are full of families in fancy dress. People of all ages are dressing…

My new forté: shimmering Ravel on a shining sea

Cruise ship pianists

21 October 2017 9:00 am

When Crystal Cruises invited me to join their flagship as the guest classical pianist for a springtime voyage around the…

Right track: The trains are cheap and on time

Spain’s trains are fast, cheap and on time... so how do we get it so wrong?

14 October 2017 9:00 am

The first railway line in Spain, from Barcelona to Mataro a few miles up the coast towards the French border,…

Hidden den: Gerry’s Club on Dean Street

Step into Soho’s hidden drinking clubs, portals into another world

7 October 2017 9:00 am

When someone says ‘Let’s go for a drink at my club’, what do you imagine? A grand St James’s establishment…

The Old Town seen from the Charles Bridge

Notes on Prague, city of beer, music, and art-nouveau wonders

30 September 2017 9:00 am

Prague. Prague. It helps to say the name at least twice as a countermeasure to the ridiculous ease of modern…

School of thought: the site of the first college in Bishopsgate

Gresham College, the original school of thought

23 September 2017 9:00 am

How many people need to gather together before it becomes more likely than not that at least two of them…

Star attraction: A detail from Banksy’s mural

How Banksy’s Brexit mural put a smile on Dover’s face

16 September 2017 9:00 am

When people come to Dover, it’s usually to pass through. The magnificent castle on the cliffs may be a tourist…

Woven thread: a 19th-century Arthurian tapestry

Tapestries are beautiful, romantic – and half the price of wallpaper

9 September 2017 9:00 am

It is rare nowadays to see someone pull out a half-finished tapestry from their handbag and get on with their…

Oxford’s spires mark a new beginning

Never mind the Northern Powerhouse – here comes the Oxford to Cambridge corridor

2 September 2017 9:00 am

Oxbridge is an ivory-tower state of mind, perhaps, or at least two ancient rival universities, but how about this: in…

On the up: Saltburn-by-the-Sea’s funicular railway

Saltburn-by-the-Sea is having its Goldilocks moment

26 August 2017 9:00 am

When towns are on the up, there is a brief period when they inhabit what I would call the Goldilocks…

Originals: Jack Dempsey, left, in his 1919 title fight

Boxer shorts

19 August 2017 9:00 am

Chaps, be honest. Have you achieved nether-region nirvana? Twenty years ago I had reached the summit of underwear style and…

‘Dinant’, by J.M.W. Turner, 1839

Watercolour

12 August 2017 9:00 am

Like many artistically inclined children, I was given a set of Daler Rowney watercolours for my birthday one year. My…

The Surrey hills

5 August 2017 9:00 am

I live in the oldest village in England. How come? Well, in a field below the big house, there is…

The Magnolia Cup: Will the race be to the Swift?

Goodwood

29 July 2017 9:00 am

The South Downs cover 260 sq miles from Hampshire’s Itchen Valley to Eastbourne in East Sussex. Nestled near the southernmost…

The land of lost content – best seen on horseback

Shropshire

22 July 2017 9:00 am

I found the land of lost content last week, west of the Clee Hills in the Shropshire Housman wrote about,…

A lot of Outside: the seafront at Southwold

Southwold Sailors’ Reading Room

15 July 2017 9:00 am

The Southwold Sailors’ Reading Room is a gorgeous bit of Inside. Like any coastal town, Southwold has an awful lot…

The ruined fortress of Peyrepertuse

Cathar country, Carcassonne and cassoulet

8 July 2017 9:00 am

I once spent three months living in the Languedoc, writing my first novel. The highlight was the few days I…

Last picture show: Victory Boogie-Woogie

A century of De Stijl

1 July 2017 9:00 am

It starts as soon as I arrive. In Den Haag Centraal railway station, the kiosks, windows, lift shaft, piano and…