Food

It reeks of Alan Clark and the 1980s but all is forgiven for the food: Le Gavroche reviewed

5 May 2018 9:00 am

Le Gavroche is named for ‘the urchin’ in Victor Hugo’s Les Misérables and lives in a basement on Upper Brook…

If it’s austere calm you want, Bentley’s Oyster Bar and Grill is for you

21 April 2018 9:00 am

Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill is on Swallow Street, an alley between Piccadilly and Regent Street, which swallowed most of…

How Soho became so-so: Kettner’s Townhouse reviewed

7 April 2018 9:00 am

Sometimes I fret that Soho House & Co is doing to this column what it does to London. It places…

Too good for the kleptocrats of Knightsbridge: Harry’s Dolce Vita reviewed

24 March 2018 9:00 am

In 2007 Mikhael Gorbachev starred in a Louis Vuitton advert. He was driven past the Berlin Wall with Louis Vuitton…

As restaurants go, it’s important – and it knows it: the River Café reviewed

10 March 2018 9:00 am

Jilly Cooper’s fictional hero Rupert Campbell-Black has ‘never been to Hammersmith’. I have but I wish I hadn’t. I love…

A Soho steak house that used to be a pornographic cinema: Sophie’s reviewed

24 February 2018 9:00 am

Sophie’s lives in an old pornographic cinema at the south end of Great Windmill Street, Soho. It is opposite McDonald’s…

A new addition to north London’s underwhelming restaurants: Café Hampstead reviewed

10 February 2018 9:00 am

Café Hampstead is a new café in — big reveal! — Hampstead, the gaudiest of the old villages on the…

A glorious theatrical feast at the National: Foodwork reviewed

27 January 2018 9:00 am

There is a restaurant on the stage at the National Theatre in London. It is called Foodwork, and it is…

Tea in the hallowed grounds of Lord’s: The Long Room reviewed

13 January 2018 9:00 am

As dreams of winning the Ashes became, well, the only word is ash, for 4-0 is not a number even…

It’s survived universal suffrage and two world wars: restaurant Rules reviewed

16 December 2017 9:00 am

Rules looks as if it voted for Brexit, and now finds itself inside an eternal Christmas Eve, where it is…

Henrietta: a casual restaurant with formal food for people wearing hats

9 December 2017 9:00 am

Henrietta is a restaurant in a boutique hotel on Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, around the corner from the actors’ church…

Farmacy’s food is the worst I have eaten in London

25 November 2017 9:00 am

Farmacy, which opened last year, is London’s most fashionable ‘clean eating’ restaurant; it is, therefore, a restaurant for people who…

This new Bake Off diner is just half-baked Hollywood

11 November 2017 9:00 am

Knead is the first of Paul Hollywood’s new strain of bakeries that sell coffee, and which will encircle capitalism. This…

The Connaught is the queen of hotels, and its dining room is a fairyland

28 October 2017 9:00 am

Jean-Georges at the Connaught — formerly the Prince of Saxe-Coburg Hotel, but it was renamed during the first world war,…

Elle Decoration meets pub food: The Mandrake reviewed

14 October 2017 9:00 am

The Mandrake is a new ‘design hotel’ in London, which means it is for people who treat Elle Decoration magazine…

Veneta is Venice done by Habitat. But you can’t fault the pork chop

30 September 2017 9:00 am

Veneta is a Venetian restaurant inside the St James’s Market development south of Piccadilly Circus. I do not like this…

Foxlow in Soho comes from the makers of Hawksmoor, specialists in blood and English baroque

16 September 2017 9:00 am

Foxlow is near Golden Square in west Soho, where drunken hacks used to take long drunken lunches before having stupid…

J Sheekey’s sumptuous feast was enhanced by the presence of a celebrity guest

2 September 2017 9:00 am

J Sheekey is one of Richard Caring’s older, and better, restaurants. Since he has dowsed the suburbs of London in…

The Other Naughty Piglet: good tapas but where’s the phantom?

19 August 2017 9:00 am

I am always surprised to remember that Andrew Lloyd Webber has taste; it must be remembrance of Cats. I was…

To Tate St Ives, where they serve up a generic menu for the emmets

5 August 2017 9:00 am

Tate St Ives is a pale 1980s block, with a fat rounded porte cochère and sea-stained walls. It is the…

To Katz’s deli, an amazing theme park of Jewish-American food

22 July 2017 9:00 am

Katz’s Delicatessen, established 1888, is a theme park of Jewish-American food, with tribute gift shop, on the lower east side…

The skinny diners are loomed over by a fat, drunken tyre salesman

8 July 2017 9:00 am

Bibendum is a hushed restaurant on the first floor of the Michelin House on the Fulham Road. (Bibendum is the…

Not my bag: what to say about a Soho diner that specialises in crisps?

24 June 2017 9:00 am

Hip Chips is a specialist crisp restaurant in Old Compton Street, Soho; no, it is stupider than that. It is…

The vaulting ambition of ten restaurants in a bank

10 June 2017 9:00 am

To the Ned, as diarists say when they can’t provide a rational reason for their voyage: the colossal banking hall…

To Pollen Street Social, to eat tiny, very controlled food

27 May 2017 9:00 am

Pollen Street Social lives in a Georgian house on Pollen Street, Mayfair, a narrow curve between Hanover Street and Maddox…