Food

Elle Decoration meets pub food: The Mandrake reviewed

14 October 2017 9:00 am

The Mandrake is a new ‘design hotel’ in London, which means it is for people who treat Elle Decoration magazine…

Veneta is Venice done by Habitat. But you can’t fault the pork chop

30 September 2017 9:00 am

Veneta is a Venetian restaurant inside the St James’s Market development south of Piccadilly Circus. I do not like this…

Foxlow in Soho comes from the makers of Hawksmoor, specialists in blood and English baroque

16 September 2017 9:00 am

Foxlow is near Golden Square in west Soho, where drunken hacks used to take long drunken lunches before having stupid…

J Sheekey’s sumptuous feast was enhanced by the presence of a celebrity guest

2 September 2017 9:00 am

J Sheekey is one of Richard Caring’s older, and better, restaurants. Since he has dowsed the suburbs of London in…

The Other Naughty Piglet: good tapas but where’s the phantom?

19 August 2017 9:00 am

I am always surprised to remember that Andrew Lloyd Webber has taste; it must be remembrance of Cats. I was…

To Tate St Ives, where they serve up a generic menu for the emmets

5 August 2017 9:00 am

Tate St Ives is a pale 1980s block, with a fat rounded porte cochère and sea-stained walls. It is the…

To Katz’s deli, an amazing theme park of Jewish-American food

22 July 2017 9:00 am

Katz’s Delicatessen, established 1888, is a theme park of Jewish-American food, with tribute gift shop, on the lower east side…

The skinny diners are loomed over by a fat, drunken tyre salesman

8 July 2017 9:00 am

Bibendum is a hushed restaurant on the first floor of the Michelin House on the Fulham Road. (Bibendum is the…

Not my bag: what to say about a Soho diner that specialises in crisps?

24 June 2017 9:00 am

Hip Chips is a specialist crisp restaurant in Old Compton Street, Soho; no, it is stupider than that. It is…

The vaulting ambition of ten restaurants in a bank

10 June 2017 9:00 am

To the Ned, as diarists say when they can’t provide a rational reason for their voyage: the colossal banking hall…

To Pollen Street Social, to eat tiny, very controlled food

27 May 2017 9:00 am

Pollen Street Social lives in a Georgian house on Pollen Street, Mayfair, a narrow curve between Hanover Street and Maddox…

Moods on many levels: Six Storeys on Soho is all about the atmosphere

13 May 2017 9:00 am

Six Storeys on Soho is in a slender grey townhouse on Soho Square: a bar, restaurant and club. It is…

I cry fowl on Cafe Football’s bright orange chicken in the basket

29 April 2017 9:00 am

Cafe Football is in the Westfield shopping centre in Stratford, east London, a shopping centre with a faulty name. It…

Jamie’s latest plank: Barbecoa on Piccadilly

15 April 2017 9:00 am

Barbecoa is Jamie Oliver’s new restaurant on Piccadilly, and no matter how many times I mutter the name, I do…

In praise of Joe Allen, London’s best American restaurant

1 April 2017 9:00 am

It is rare for me to write a love letter to a London restaurant, but Joe Allen, which is 40…

Nordic calm for scary people - Aquavit London reviewed

18 March 2017 9:00 am

Aquavit is a ‘uniquely Nordic–style’ restaurant in the St James’s Market development between Regent Street and the Haymarket. This development…

One good thing about not being rich: you’ll never eat at Ferdi

4 March 2017 9:00 am

Ferdi is a café in Shepherd Market; I write about it only to comfort you, because you are not rich,…

What do Ralph Lauren’s imaginary aristocrats eat? Now we know

18 February 2017 9:00 am

Ralph’s Coffee & Bar is in the Polo Ralph Lauren flagship store on Regent Street. It is rare that fashion…

Donald Trump’s wrong about the Waverly Inn. That doesn’t make it good

4 February 2017 9:00 am

The Waverly Inn is the house restaurant of Vanity Fair magazine in New York City. It is part-owned by Graydon…

Greyish guacamole and old-tasting beef: welcome to the Trump Grill

21 January 2017 9:00 am

Trump Tower sits between Gucci and Tiffany on Fifth Avenue in New York City. It looks like infant Lego, the…

This time, lifestyle-seekers have it right: Margot restaurant reviewed

7 January 2017 9:00 am

Margot is an Italian restaurant on Great Queen Street in the still interesting part of Covent Garden. The uninteresting part…

Wiltons, an almost entirely flawless institution

10 December 2016 9:00 am

I have agonised over this Christmas review. I ate the Christmas lunch at Harveys Nichols 5th Floor Restaurant, Knightsbridge, next…

Zelman Meats: a flesh-obsessed restaurant for the age of hard Brexit

26 November 2016 9:00 am

Zelman Meats — catchphrase ‘great meat’ — is sustenance for a hard Brexit — a harder Brexit, if you will.…

The restaurant I’ll go to when the world ends

12 November 2016 9:00 am

Harry Morgan is a Jewish delicatessen and restaurant in the style of New York City on St John’s Wood High…

Ancient Rome comes to the City of London

29 October 2016 9:00 am

Roma sells ancient-Roman-style food near Fenchurch Street station at the east end of the City, near Aldgate. It is, therefore,…