Food

The skinny diners are loomed over by a fat, drunken tyre salesman

8 July 2017 9:00 am

Bibendum is a hushed restaurant on the first floor of the Michelin House on the Fulham Road. (Bibendum is the…

Not my bag: what to say about a Soho diner that specialises in crisps?

24 June 2017 9:00 am

Hip Chips is a specialist crisp restaurant in Old Compton Street, Soho; no, it is stupider than that. It is…

The vaulting ambition of ten restaurants in a bank

10 June 2017 9:00 am

To the Ned, as diarists say when they can’t provide a rational reason for their voyage: the colossal banking hall…

To Pollen Street Social, to eat tiny, very controlled food

27 May 2017 9:00 am

Pollen Street Social lives in a Georgian house on Pollen Street, Mayfair, a narrow curve between Hanover Street and Maddox…

Moods on many levels: Six Storeys on Soho is all about the atmosphere

13 May 2017 9:00 am

Six Storeys on Soho is in a slender grey townhouse on Soho Square: a bar, restaurant and club. It is…

I cry fowl on Cafe Football’s bright orange chicken in the basket

29 April 2017 9:00 am

Cafe Football is in the Westfield shopping centre in Stratford, east London, a shopping centre with a faulty name. It…

Jamie’s latest plank: Barbecoa on Piccadilly

15 April 2017 9:00 am

Barbecoa is Jamie Oliver’s new restaurant on Piccadilly, and no matter how many times I mutter the name, I do…

In praise of Joe Allen, London’s best American restaurant

1 April 2017 9:00 am

It is rare for me to write a love letter to a London restaurant, but Joe Allen, which is 40…

Nordic calm for scary people - Aquavit London reviewed

18 March 2017 9:00 am

Aquavit is a ‘uniquely Nordic–style’ restaurant in the St James’s Market development between Regent Street and the Haymarket. This development…

One good thing about not being rich: you’ll never eat at Ferdi

4 March 2017 9:00 am

Ferdi is a café in Shepherd Market; I write about it only to comfort you, because you are not rich,…

What do Ralph Lauren’s imaginary aristocrats eat? Now we know

18 February 2017 9:00 am

Ralph’s Coffee & Bar is in the Polo Ralph Lauren flagship store on Regent Street. It is rare that fashion…

Donald Trump’s wrong about the Waverly Inn. That doesn’t make it good

4 February 2017 9:00 am

The Waverly Inn is the house restaurant of Vanity Fair magazine in New York City. It is part-owned by Graydon…

Greyish guacamole and old-tasting beef: welcome to the Trump Grill

21 January 2017 9:00 am

Trump Tower sits between Gucci and Tiffany on Fifth Avenue in New York City. It looks like infant Lego, the…

This time, lifestyle-seekers have it right: Margot restaurant reviewed

7 January 2017 9:00 am

Margot is an Italian restaurant on Great Queen Street in the still interesting part of Covent Garden. The uninteresting part…

Wiltons, an almost entirely flawless institution

10 December 2016 9:00 am

I have agonised over this Christmas review. I ate the Christmas lunch at Harveys Nichols 5th Floor Restaurant, Knightsbridge, next…

Zelman Meats: a flesh-obsessed restaurant for the age of hard Brexit

26 November 2016 9:00 am

Zelman Meats — catchphrase ‘great meat’ — is sustenance for a hard Brexit — a harder Brexit, if you will.…

The restaurant I’ll go to when the world ends

12 November 2016 9:00 am

Harry Morgan is a Jewish delicatessen and restaurant in the style of New York City on St John’s Wood High…

Ancient Rome comes to the City of London

29 October 2016 9:00 am

Roma sells ancient-Roman-style food near Fenchurch Street station at the east end of the City, near Aldgate. It is, therefore,…

Today’s Kensington makes Daphne’s seem tasteful

15 October 2016 9:00 am

Daphne’s serves Italian food in South Kensington. (I like the name because Daphne was the name Jack Lemmon chose for…

Bronte: soulless, stylish, and nothing to do with novel-writing

1 October 2016 9:00 am

I hoped that Bronte would be filled with Victorian writers licking ink off their fingers and bitching about Mrs Gaskell…

A terrifying lunch in CBeebies Land

17 September 2016 9:00 am

CBeebies Land is a small dystopia inside Alton Towers, a theme park where people sometimes get their legs chopped off…

The Soho Hotel Botero

For actors and other children: Soho Hotel’s Refuel Bar and Restaurant

3 September 2016 9:00 am

The Soho Hotel is an actors’ hotel. They come for press junkets and interviews that reveal nothing because there is…

The café by St Michael’s Mount dissolves my cynicism

20 August 2016 9:00 am

The Sail Loft is under a castle on a mountain on an island in the sea; for that, I could…

5th View isn’t a restaurant. It isn’t even a good café

6 August 2016 9:00 am

Eating on the top floor of Europe’s biggest bookshop should be a pleasure. Not so

Is that waiter fat-shaming us? Tanya Gold dines naked at the Bunyadi

23 July 2016 9:00 am

Bunyadi caters to folk for whom public nudity is somehow thrilling; I am here because A begged to go and…