Food

Wiltons, an almost entirely flawless institution

10 December 2016 9:00 am

I have agonised over this Christmas review. I ate the Christmas lunch at Harveys Nichols 5th Floor Restaurant, Knightsbridge, next…

Zelman Meats: a flesh-obsessed restaurant for the age of hard Brexit

26 November 2016 9:00 am

Zelman Meats — catchphrase ‘great meat’ — is sustenance for a hard Brexit — a harder Brexit, if you will.…

The restaurant I’ll go to when the world ends

12 November 2016 9:00 am

Harry Morgan is a Jewish delicatessen and restaurant in the style of New York City on St John’s Wood High…

Ancient Rome comes to the City of London

29 October 2016 9:00 am

Roma sells ancient-Roman-style food near Fenchurch Street station at the east end of the City, near Aldgate. It is, therefore,…

Today’s Kensington makes Daphne’s seem tasteful

15 October 2016 9:00 am

Daphne’s serves Italian food in South Kensington. (I like the name because Daphne was the name Jack Lemmon chose for…

Bronte: soulless, stylish, and nothing to do with novel-writing

1 October 2016 9:00 am

I hoped that Bronte would be filled with Victorian writers licking ink off their fingers and bitching about Mrs Gaskell…

A terrifying lunch in CBeebies Land

17 September 2016 9:00 am

CBeebies Land is a small dystopia inside Alton Towers, a theme park where people sometimes get their legs chopped off…

The Soho Hotel Botero

For actors and other children: Soho Hotel’s Refuel Bar and Restaurant

3 September 2016 9:00 am

The Soho Hotel is an actors’ hotel. They come for press junkets and interviews that reveal nothing because there is…

The café by St Michael’s Mount dissolves my cynicism

20 August 2016 9:00 am

The Sail Loft is under a castle on a mountain on an island in the sea; for that, I could…

5th View isn’t a restaurant. It isn’t even a good café

6 August 2016 9:00 am

Eating on the top floor of Europe’s biggest bookshop should be a pleasure. Not so

Is that waiter fat-shaming us? Tanya Gold dines naked at the Bunyadi

23 July 2016 9:00 am

Bunyadi caters to folk for whom public nudity is somehow thrilling; I am here because A begged to go and…

Cliveden is now a museum of snobbery

9 July 2016 9:00 am

Cliveden is a good review for a divided country and I have waited, not too long, for it to feel…

Soho House’s Cafe Monico is a doomed rip-off

25 June 2016 8:00 am

Cafe Monico, as if named by an illiterate playboy, is on Shaftesbury Avenue between The Curious Incident of the Dog…

This is the lasagne restaurant I’ve been waiting for — and I hated it

11 June 2016 9:00 am

I have been waiting, like a heroine in fiction, for the specialist lasagne restaurant. London has long been heading this…

The RA’s new restaurant prioritises its art over its customers

28 May 2016 9:00 am

The Keeper’s House sits in the basement of Burlington House, a restaurant in disguise. It is quite different from the…

The horrors of Soho House’s country outpost

14 May 2016 9:00 am

It is summer and the listless metropolitan thinks of grass. It cannot afford to stay at Durslade Farmhouse, Somerset, a…

The most beautiful restaurant in London – from the outside

30 April 2016 9:00 am

Batman owned the Criterion in The Dark Knight, but could he do anything about British Telecom? Savini at Criterion, an…

The Parliament Hill Café is awful. I’m sorry they saved it

16 April 2016 9:00 am

The Parliament Hill Café is a drab glass box at the bottom of Hampstead Heath, near the farmers’ market and…

Bellanger review: a posh Islington restaurant for semi-ordinary people

2 April 2016 9:00 am

Islington is a bellwether, and also a joke: the most unequal borough in London, where social housing leans against £4…

The new Wheeler’s is the worst thing Marco Pierre White has ever done

19 March 2016 9:00 am

Wheeler’s is such a dreadful restaurant that I wonder if Marco Pierre White even knows his name is on it.…

Pharmacy 2 makes me like Damien Hirst

5 March 2016 9:00 am

Pharmacy 2 is the reanimated child of Damien Hirst; it lives inside the Newport Street Gallery in a forsaken patch of…

Sartoria: the home of Savile Row’s men who lunch

20 February 2016 9:00 am

Sartoria is a pale grey restaurant on Savile Row. As evidence that this is London’s destination street — if menswear…

Le Caprice is trying to bring back the 1980s (unsuccessfully)

6 February 2016 9:00 am

Le Caprice is a monochrome patch of the 1980s behind the Ritz Hotel, in the part of St James’s that…

Bring back the old Brass Rail, Selfridges!

23 January 2016 9:00 am

The last time I reviewed a restaurant in Selfridges, a PR man rang up to ask what he could do…

Meet Feng Shang Princess, the (lousy) Chinese restaurant in a boat

9 January 2016 9:00 am

The Feng Shang Princess is a floating Chinese restaurant on the Regent’s Canal in north London, which flows from Little…