Food

The most preposterous restaurant to have opened in London this year

13 December 2014 9:00 am

Somerset House, a handsome Georgian palace on the Thames, was once the office of the Inland Revenue, and the courtyard was…

The hotels trying to turn Cornwall into Kensington

29 November 2014 9:00 am

Mousehole is a charming name; it is almost a charming place. It is a fishing village on Mount’s Bay, Cornwall,…

A buffet in an Egyptian tomb

15 November 2014 9:00 am

Atlantico is a vast buffet inside the Lopesan Costa Meloneras Resort Spa and Casino in Gran Canaria. The Lopesan Costa…

Want to shake hands with your dinner? Beast is your kind of restaurant

1 November 2014 9:00 am

Beast is next to Debenhams on Oxford Street and it is not conventionally beast-like; rather it is monetised and bespoke…

Gymkhana is morally disgusting – and fortunately the food’s disgusting too

18 October 2014 9:00 am

Gymkhana is a fashionable Indian restaurant in Albemarle Street. It was, according to its natty website, ‘inspired by Colonial Indian…

Today’s Disney princesses look like Russian mafia wives. This is their café

4 October 2014 9:00 am

The Disney Café is a gaudy hell on the fourth floor of Harrods, Knightsbridge. It is adjacent to the Harrods…

Rextail: a restaurant for billionaire children

20 September 2014 9:00 am

Rextail is a restaurant for billionaire children, such as Richie Rich. Its owner, Arcady Novikov, has already opened a restaurant…

Fischer’s is like visiting Vienna without having to go to Austria (thank God)

6 September 2014 9:00 am

Fischer’s is Austria made safe for liberals, gays, Jews and other Untermenschen riffraff, because it is a restaurant, not a…

Rhubarb has the loveliest, craziest dining room I have ever seen

23 August 2014 9:00 am

The Edinburgh Fringe Festival: the city is full of glassy-eyed narcissists eating haggis pizza off flyers that say Michael Gove:…

L’Escargot is Soho as Soho sees itself

9 August 2014 9:00 am

L’Escargot, or the Snail, is a famous restaurant on Greek Street, Soho, opposite the old Establishment club; the oldest French…

Does the Duke of Devonshire really want to be my friend – or is he just after my bank details?

26 July 2014 9:00 am

The Chatsworth estate, Derby-shire. I am overwhelmed by marketing literature. I am prostrate. I am weeping. I am staying in…

Dean Street Townhouse – at last! Somewhere I'd pay to eat

12 July 2014 9:00 am

Occasionally a critic must review a restaurant in which they are prepared to spend their own money. So here is…

At the Chiltern Firehouse, smugness should be on the menu

28 June 2014 9:00 am

Here then is Gatsby’s house, after an invasion by the Daily Mail. It is called the Chiltern Firehouse. It is…

Something wild – well, wild for Claridge's – in Gordon Ramsay's old cave

14 June 2014 8:00 am

Fera is in Gordon Ramsay’s old cave at Claridge’s. His red and yellow room, like a ripped-off arm, has been…

Harry’s Bar, where a slice of cake costs €32 – and is worth it

31 May 2014 9:00 am

Harry’s Bar is a dull pale box. This is remarkable in Venice, which is a hospice for dying palaces, held…

The rudest restaurants in London

17 May 2014 9:00 am

Wong Kei is a mad Chinese restaurant on Wardour Street, Chinatown. Until recently it was considered the rudest restaurant in…

After visiting the Cherwell Boathouse, I might spare Oxford from burning

3 May 2014 9:00 am

It is now two decades since I lived in Oxford. I was then a drunk and lonely puddle of a…

Marcus Wareing drops a name

19 April 2014 9:00 am

In the ‘Chefs’ Last Supper’ in the National Portrait Gallery, Marcus Wareing is throwing a brie at Gordon Ramsay, who…

Gordon Ramsay joins in the posh invasion of Battersea

5 April 2014 9:00 am

London House is in Battersea, which some people call South Chelsea, but is more East Wandsworth to my mind; or…

Who dines at Highgrove when Prince Charles doesn't?

22 March 2014 9:00 am

Highgrove is the country house of the Prince of Wales. I write about Highgrove because, although it is not a…

So is Moro a Tory restaurant now?

8 March 2014 9:00 am

Moro (‘moorish’ or ‘sexist’) is a Spanish restaurant on Exmouth Market, near the bones of the old Guardian and Observer…

The Fable would do better as an American Psycho theme bar

22 February 2014 9:00 am

The Fable is three floors high and two days old, a monster newly hatched on the Holborn Viaduct; deep below…

Lanes of London is dining for Martians

8 February 2014 9:00 am

Lanes of London serves street food to people who hate streets; that is, it exists to soothe the still-curious mouths…

The 1980s relics of Langan's Brasserie

25 January 2014 9:00 am

Langan’s Brasserie announces its presence with a long, pink neon line of Langanses, tootling prettily along its façade, which is…

Tanya Gold: Child-friendly, sex-free, nut-heavy – just the hotel for my 40th birthday

11 January 2014 9:00 am

Woolley Grange is a child-friendly country house hotel that seems, at first, entirely monstrous — a grey Tudor house in…