Food

L’Escargot is Soho as Soho sees itself

9 August 2014 9:00 am

L’Escargot, or the Snail, is a famous restaurant on Greek Street, Soho, opposite the old Establishment club; the oldest French…

Does the Duke of Devonshire really want to be my friend – or is he just after my bank details?

26 July 2014 9:00 am

The Chatsworth estate, Derby-shire. I am overwhelmed by marketing literature. I am prostrate. I am weeping. I am staying in…

Dean Street Townhouse – at last! Somewhere I'd pay to eat

12 July 2014 9:00 am

Occasionally a critic must review a restaurant in which they are prepared to spend their own money. So here is…

At the Chiltern Firehouse, smugness should be on the menu

28 June 2014 9:00 am

Here then is Gatsby’s house, after an invasion by the Daily Mail. It is called the Chiltern Firehouse. It is…

Something wild – well, wild for Claridge's – in Gordon Ramsay's old cave

14 June 2014 8:00 am

Fera is in Gordon Ramsay’s old cave at Claridge’s. His red and yellow room, like a ripped-off arm, has been…

Harry’s Bar, where a slice of cake costs €32 – and is worth it

31 May 2014 9:00 am

Harry’s Bar is a dull pale box. This is remarkable in Venice, which is a hospice for dying palaces, held…

The rudest restaurants in London

17 May 2014 9:00 am

Wong Kei is a mad Chinese restaurant on Wardour Street, Chinatown. Until recently it was considered the rudest restaurant in…

After visiting the Cherwell Boathouse, I might spare Oxford from burning

3 May 2014 9:00 am

It is now two decades since I lived in Oxford. I was then a drunk and lonely puddle of a…

Marcus Wareing drops a name

19 April 2014 9:00 am

In the ‘Chefs’ Last Supper’ in the National Portrait Gallery, Marcus Wareing is throwing a brie at Gordon Ramsay, who…

Gordon Ramsay joins in the posh invasion of Battersea

5 April 2014 9:00 am

London House is in Battersea, which some people call South Chelsea, but is more East Wandsworth to my mind; or…

Who dines at Highgrove when Prince Charles doesn't?

22 March 2014 9:00 am

Highgrove is the country house of the Prince of Wales. I write about Highgrove because, although it is not a…

So is Moro a Tory restaurant now?

8 March 2014 9:00 am

Moro (‘moorish’ or ‘sexist’) is a Spanish restaurant on Exmouth Market, near the bones of the old Guardian and Observer…

The Fable would do better as an American Psycho theme bar

22 February 2014 9:00 am

The Fable is three floors high and two days old, a monster newly hatched on the Holborn Viaduct; deep below…

Lanes of London is dining for Martians

8 February 2014 9:00 am

Lanes of London serves street food to people who hate streets; that is, it exists to soothe the still-curious mouths…

The 1980s relics of Langan's Brasserie

25 January 2014 9:00 am

Langan’s Brasserie announces its presence with a long, pink neon line of Langanses, tootling prettily along its façade, which is…

Tanya Gold: Child-friendly, sex-free, nut-heavy – just the hotel for my 40th birthday

11 January 2014 9:00 am

Woolley Grange is a child-friendly country house hotel that seems, at first, entirely monstrous — a grey Tudor house in…

Tanya Gold: The sheer horror of Hyde Park's Winter Wonderland

14 December 2013 9:00 am

Winter Wonderland is a Christmas-themed playground that lands on the sorry part of Hyde Park in November; the part that…

Tanya Gold: Eating in the lobby at Canary Wharf

30 November 2013 9:00 am

One Canada Square was the original glass house in east London’s Gotham City, a thrilling tower with a flashing pyramid…

Boulestin has nothing to do with Marcel Boulestin — but could entice Mary Berry

16 November 2013 9:00 am

Boulestin is a pretty restaurant on St James’s Street, between the posh fag shop (Davidoff) and the old palace, which…

Food: Heston’s brown Dinner, with a side order of irritation

2 November 2013 9:00 am

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, a brown cavern in the Mandarin Oriental hotel, Knightsbridge, has won a second Michelin star. These…

Gordon Ramsay's violently unsexy new restaurant shows he's near the end

19 October 2013 9:00 am

The Union Street Café is in a dismal, dingy part of London; dismal dingy Southwark. Southwark, in fact, is almost…

The Wild Rabbit's food may be organic - but nothing else there is

5 October 2013 9:00 am

The Wild Rabbit is a pub in the Cotswolds, that small corner of Britain full of evil grinning cottages; if…

A restaurant in a synagogue. How strange can it be?

21 September 2013 9:00 am

A restaurant in a synagogue may be too mad even for this column but we are Jews, so why not?…

A Roald Dahl tea? It reminds me more of Jimmy Savile

7 September 2013 9:00 am

One Aldwych, an Edwardian grand hotel near Waterloo Bridge, is serving a Jimmy Savile tribute tea. It is not explicitly…

‘Like a concentration camp run by KFC’: Tanya Gold visits Shake Shack

10 August 2013 9:00 am

Shake Shack is a hamburger restaurant in Covent Garden market. It came from New York and it is as needy…