Food

Tanya Gold on eating at the Shard

27 July 2013 9:00 am

What to say about the Shard that isn’t said by the fact it is 1,020 feet high and looks like…

Tanya Gold eats suckling pig at Le Café Anglais

13 July 2013 9:00 am

I write this column at the point of a pitchfork. A, normally so placid — ‘He’s so placid!’ people like…

Food: Scott’s, the scene of the crime

29 June 2013 9:00 am

Scott’s, Mount Street, Mayfair: the scene of the crime or, for those who do not read newspapers, the place where…

Restaurant: Kaspar’s at the Savoy

15 June 2013 9:00 am

Kaspar’s Seafood Bar and Grill is named for superstition, snobbery and avarice. At a dinner at the Savoy in 1898…

An ice-cream war

1 June 2013 9:00 am

The Antica Roma is an ice-cream shop near the Spanish Steps in Rome; recently, it served four English tourists called…

Tanya Gold reviews STK London

18 May 2013 9:00 am

STK is a steakhouse at the bottom of the ME Hotel on the Aldwych. (This is a real name for…

Tanya Gold reviews Potato Merchant

4 May 2013 9:00 am

Exmouth Market is a small collection of paved streets near the Farringdon Travelodge, which specialises in monomaniacal restaurants and has…

Tanya Gold reviews The Ritz

20 April 2013 9:00 am

The Ritz Hotel is a cake on Piccadilly made of stone; inside this cake, Lady Thatcher died. Some think it…

Tnya Gold reviews Café Royal, London

6 April 2013 9:00 am

The Ten Room is the -restaurant inside the new Café Royal Hotel, which occupies the curve of Regent Street from…

Tanya Gold reviews Attendant, London

23 March 2013 9:00 am

I love metaphor, and now metaphor has led me to a toilet near Goodge Street, in that thankless patch of…

Tanya Gold reviews Balthazar

9 March 2013 9:00 am

Balthazar is a golden cave in Covent Garden, in the old Theatre (Luvvie) Museum, home to dead pantomime horses and…

Tanya Gold reviews Planet Hollywood

23 February 2013 9:00 am

It’s Oscar time! I know this because the British media, usually so prudent, has transformed itself into naked advertorial for…

Tanya Gold reviews Maxim’s, Paris

9 February 2013 9:00 am

Maxim’s! The very name is drool from Maurice Chevalier’s lips, as he perved around Gigi and sang, ‘Thank heaven for…

Tanya Gold reviews The Churchill Arms, London

26 January 2013 9:00 am

The Churchill Arms in Kensington is a sort of Winston Churchill fetish bar, full of every conceivable piece of Winston…

Tanya Gold reviews Hawksmoor

12 January 2013 9:00 am

How many restaurants make a chain? If the number is four, then Hawksmoor, the superb chop-house named for the Baroque…

Tanya Gold reviews Goldeneye, Jamaica

29 December 2012 9:00 am

Goldeneye is the house in Jamaica where Ian Fleming wrote James Bond, and spanked his wife; that is why Fleming…

Tanya Gold reviews the Orient-Express

15 December 2012 9:00 am

The British Pullman on platform 1 at Victoria station looks mad, because it is 9 a.m. and ugly British commuters are running…

Tanya Gold reviews Colbert

1 December 2012 9:00 am

A creation myth: Earl -Cadogan wandered into Oriel, the ancient Sloane Square brasserie on his land, like a lardy dachshund,…

Tea and lunacy

17 November 2012 9:00 am

Food and fashion are enemies, so congratulations to the Berkeley Hotel for attempting detente with something insane. It has invented…

Dog stars

3 November 2012 9:00 am

Bubbledogs is a restaurant from cinema. It is violently 1980s, American and flash. The sign Bubbledogs shines neon pink from…

Evil empire

20 October 2012 9:00 am

Opus has written its name in letters six foot high outside, which is such a screaming act of narcissistic self-doubt,…

The lobsters that ate Piers Morgan

6 October 2012 9:00 am

Burger & Lobster is a -restaurant for capitalism in crisis, an existential moan for something simpler and less awful. Either…

Lord Sugar’s castle

22 September 2012 9:00 am

Alan Sugar’s Turkish restaurant, Sheesh, is in Chigwell, a land of soft lawns, hard money and fairies who count it.…

Cooking witches

25 August 2012 6:00 am

The Witchery is almost a themed restaurant; it is a weeping medieval tenement, just below Edinburgh Castle, which looks like…

Quarter-pounders with guilt

11 August 2012 6:00 am

The McDonald’s in the Olympic Park has 1,500 seats and is the biggest McDonald’s on earth. Let us ignore the…