Food

Evil empire

20 October 2012 9:00 am

Opus has written its name in letters six foot high outside, which is such a screaming act of narcissistic self-doubt,…

The lobsters that ate Piers Morgan

6 October 2012 9:00 am

Burger & Lobster is a -restaurant for capitalism in crisis, an existential moan for something simpler and less awful. Either…

Lord Sugar’s castle

22 September 2012 9:00 am

Alan Sugar’s Turkish restaurant, Sheesh, is in Chigwell, a land of soft lawns, hard money and fairies who count it.…

Cooking witches

25 August 2012 6:00 am

The Witchery is almost a themed restaurant; it is a weeping medieval tenement, just below Edinburgh Castle, which looks like…

Quarter-pounders with guilt

11 August 2012 6:00 am

The McDonald’s in the Olympic Park has 1,500 seats and is the biggest McDonald’s on earth. Let us ignore the…

A study in pink

28 July 2012 6:00 am

Brasserie Zédel is the pinkest restaurant I have ever seen. It is pig pink, Barbie pink, icing-sugar pink and tongue…

Eating the brand

14 July 2012 6:00 am

I thought I would hate Bulgari. (At least they have stopped calling it Bvlgari). Ah, you might say, surely Bulgari,…

Russian dolls

30 June 2012 6:00 am

Mari Vanna is in Knightsbridge, near those pale loitering houses that would be ripped up if only their owners could…

Sexy time

16 June 2012 6:00 am

Nick Clegg and sex. What doesn’t the dude know about it — he told Piers Morgan he had slept with…

Away with the pixies

2 June 2012 12:00 am

Dabbous is the place where stoned pixies would dine if they were into food. I have a fever and think…

Carry on screaming

19 May 2012 1:00 pm

The Bread Street Kitchen is a big restaurant near the Mansion House, brought to you by Gordon Ramsay’s big rage;…

Food: Jubilee tea

4 May 2012 11:00 pm

Fortnum & Mason is a major attraction at the UK heritage theme park, the equivalent of the gorilla at London…

Food: Full Marx

21 April 2012 2:15 pm

Quo Vadis is the restaurant in the house where Marx wrote Das Kapital, and today it is full of tulips.…

Food: Flesh and blood

7 April 2012 1:00 pm

Poor Hawksmoor. So obviously the genius of English Baroque, and yet he always comes last in the histories, behind flashy…

Food: Luxury comedy

24 March 2012 1:00 pm

Sometimes I think luxury is a joke played on the rich by the not-so rich. In my mind, people on…

Food: Dinner drama

10 March 2012 1:00 pm

Novikov is an immense two-storey restaurant in deepest Mayfair. It serves Asian on the ground floor and Italian in the…

Food: Conference call

25 February 2012 12:00 pm

The Grand Hotel, Brighton, is the most beautiful hotel in England. It is bright and shiny like Simon Cowell’s teeth,…

Food: Movie dinners

11 February 2012 1:00 pm

The Odeon cinema in Whiteleys, Bayswater, has refurbished; it now has eight ‘Lounges’ where you can watch a film and…

Food: Smart casual

28 January 2012 12:00 pm

Reviewing the Delaunay is like reviewing Nelson Mandela. You cannot be rude. This restaurant, a new sister for the ­Wolseley,…

Food: Eating like a Miliband

14 January 2012 12:45 pm

I came to the Gay Hussar for gags about the Labour party; to find some wreckage of its glory days.…

Food: I have been here before

31 December 2011 11:00 am

34 is the new restaurant from Richard Caring, the ‘Lex Luthor of Mayfair’, who owns The Ivy, Le Caprice and…

Food: Raiding the fridge

10 December 2011 1:00 pm

The new hotel W looms like a giant fridge over Leicester Square. They demolished the poor old Swiss Centre to…

Food: Occupy dinner

26 November 2011 1:00 pm

What to say about Occupy London? I support it, because I always judge a movement by the quality of its…

Food: The End of Cows

12 November 2011 2:00 pm

Wolfgang Puck, who is a globally famous chef, has opened Cut on Park Lane. Beef is Cut’s thing and who…

Food: Drowning in mustard

29 October 2011 2:00 pm

The St Pancras Renaissance London Hotel, by Marriott, is 14 syllables long, which is too many. The best hotels have…